Sunday, June 21, 2009

The Ways of Iquitos

First, through the miracle of the Internet, I was able to wish my father a Happy Father's Day despite being over 6,000 miles away! And keeping in touch with you all is such a blessing that it can’t be anything other than a miracle. So talking about miracles, tomorrow is the day that I have been eagerly awaiting for weeks, months, even years because tomorrow morning, at 6 AM, Samantha arrives in Iquitos. I have been thinking about her all day, where she is on each part of the trip, as I know she will be changing planes many times. She will also be doing the usual routine of an overnight stay in the airport of Lima. But pulling “all nighters” should be no trouble for this gal! And hopefully, all the goodies I asked her to bring me (like wax paper, foil and WD40) will make in her suitcase and arrive in a timely manner. We head out tomorrow to the jungle for all the fun things it has to offer. I fully expect Sam to fall in love with the jungle and PerĂº as much as I have—watch out, another Snyder may be moving!!

Life in Iquitos continues in its continuous loop of routine activity. A gringo friend described it as “Ground Hog Day” because every day is the same--the weather, the food, the music, the people, the action on the street, the jungle and beat of it all seems to be a constant. Some folks would not care for it but thus far, I’m not one of them. However, I have to say that although I usually sing its praises, there are some things about Iquitos that are not pleasant. One of them is the endless public spitting that is practiced by every man, woman and child! It doesn’t seem to matter where they are or what time of day, nor does anyone bother to look around first before they do it, but someone is spitting. And it’s not done in a quiet manner, oh no! They have to start it all very deep in the throat and really work up a good one first , then they let it all loose (there’s a slang word for this that I’m sure you all know so need to spell it out here)! Thus far, while walking down the street, I have not been personally caught in the line of fire, but it’s been close! I know it’s only a bad habit which can be broken but someone has to start.

Explorama is constantly training its staff to avoid this practice when working with tourists. In the four yeas I have been staying at Explorama Lodges, I have never seen or heard anyone do it. It was only after living in Iquitos that I began to notice the difference. So I know it’s a habit that can be stopped—someone just needs to point it out and I have been mentioning this to my Iquitoan friends as often as possible! If you think of Iquitos as the wild, Wild West you get the picture. Stray dogs roam the streets, public urination is another fun pastime, and there are no road rules when it comes to driving. The street competes with pedestrians, motokars, motorcycles, cars, trucks, dogs and often kids trying to play soccer or volleyball. Sitting outside on the streets, drinking beer, dancing, gathering around a BBQ grill are as commonplace here as rain is each day. People here also have an incredible tolerance for a “live and let live” attitude which allows for everyone to pretty much be themselves and do their own thing. There is some petty theft, mainly from tourists and motorcycles are often lifted but other than that, there is virtually no violent crime. So, when all is said and done, despite some darker sides of Iquitos, I still love the place, the people and the life I have carved out for myself here “in this place, in time and space”. I wish for you all the same level of contentment, peace and joy at some point in your lives. My time here will not last forever, but when one day I return to the States, I will have no regrets about the choices I've made! I hope you can say the same :)

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

June from the Jungle

Well, since I last wrote, the office has been completed revamped with a new cement wall and a new color. So far we have neither seen nor heard any more rats so hopefully they've found a new home somewhere else! After many weeks of disruption, we are all back together in the same area and enjoying our cheery new space. There are many new projects on my plate: helping create a new CONAPAC website with our good friend Nancy Cowal; a new e-newsletter for AAS with Claire Lannoye from the Detroit Zoo; and creating some new "voluntourism" programs for International Expeditions, a tour company who regularly sends business to Explorama. I am excited about all these new opportunities to spread the fun of international volunteering and the help it can bring others in the world.

I had a somewhat difficult Mother's Day this year knowing that my own mother is no longer with me. Also, I was not able to see or speak with either of my daughters, Erin and Samantha. But my Iquitos "family" once again came through for me by making sure I had something to do that day and providing me with little gifts. By the end of what was a perfect day, weather wise, I was feeling a little better. But I guess the best thing that came out of my melancholy mood was an IM conversation with Samantha the next day. After we both proclaimed how much we missed each other, it became clear that something had to be done. I asked her to check the cost of flights, then one thing lead to another and now she's booked to come for a visit. She will be arriving on Monday, June 22nd, in less than three weeks and I couldn't be more excited!!! This will be the first visit I receive from any of my family so it's really special and she will stay for 10 days. We will go to the jungle for about five days then back to the city to check out my crazy life here in Iquitos. Pray that her trip here is safe and uneventful :)

I had a couple of routine experiences last month but with a few differences being in Peru. First, I went for a yearly dental check-up. I had my teeth cleaned by a very nice doctor who gave me what I consider one of the best cleanings ever! She did a great job in about 45 minutes. The final cost? S/60.00 or about $20! This month I'm going for my annual Pap smear and mammogram which will cost me substantially less than in the States. Since I no longer have health insurance, it will be close to unaffordable for me to purchase these services in Michigan. Better take care of my health as much as possible while I am here!

My second routine experience involved a funeral. Sadly, our education director, Alberto Vela, lost his 45 year old wife to stomach cancer. It was quite sudden and a huge lost for his family and the school in which she taught for many years. Pam and I arrived at the house Saturday. There where at least seven large buses full of people heading to the cemetery, along with the hearse, a pick-up truck for the family members, and many motorcycles. It was quite some distance to the cemetery as it's located outside of the city limits. This was my first time to see this part of Iquitos since so much of it is developed. (Iquitos is on a peninsula surrounded by rivers and then the jungle. As you know there are no roads in or out of Iquitos to any place else so finding "countryside" was quite a novelty for me). We finally got to the cemetery--by the way, there was not an orderly funeral procession as you would have had in the States but rather a bit of a "free for all" going down the road. But we all made it to a beautiful, well-tended, well-designed cemetery--really an oasis in the middle of the jungle. As I entered the main burial area I was completely struck by a vision of pure fun and joy. There are no headstones but instead, small metal plaques. On each grave was a miniature umbrella stuck in the ground in all kinds of patterns and colors. Then draped over each umbrella and underneath were silk flowers in all colors and styles. The terrain was slightly rolling so as you glazed across, it looked like a fairyland or happy place--a complete delight to the eye and heart! Although the final words of the clergy and family were ones of loss and grief, there was a note of possibility in the air. With over 300 hundred adults and children in attendance, our friend, Irma Cruz, was sent off to her next life with much love and affection by those left behind on that glorious day. I was quite honored to be able to attend.

I have found myself the owner of another cell phone! As I've mentioned to many of my friends, I could hardly bear to have a cell phone in the States and now I'm on my second one here in only seven months. But my first one was dropped in the toilet (don't ask!) twice. I was able to have it repaired but then it died again. There are two service companies here, Claro and Movistar. I had Claro the first time and was never too happy with the reception. I decided to try the other and so far, so good. Tomorrow I leave for the jungle for a week and my understanding is that Movistar will work while I'm at the Lodges. We shall see how good it really is! But the kicker to my story is that after I bought my new phone and was trying to retrieve my address book off the memory card--Eureka!--my old phone started working again. So now I had two working phones, two different services, and one big headache--what to do? But since nothing goes to waste here, I found someone who needed a phone and I gave it away. My friend, Maruja, who is helping me with my Spanish, now has my old phone--so far, it's working great! Hopefully, she won't be dropping it in a toilet anytime soon as I think three strikes, you're out!!

Final notes and thanks to all the volunteers and other jungle visitors who have kept in touch with me. I've met many new friends from all over the world and they've been just great about staying in touch. I know that once one returns home, despite the best of intentions, it's difficult to remember the passion felt while here in the rainforest--but overall, everyone has been great and I really appreciate it. The door is always open and I'd love to see you all again!

Ciao for now, Sintia

PS...See new photo posted below!

Followers