Friday, January 8, 2016

An ambassador for the Cuban people...


CUBA: Wow!! or why?? This question--asked by our expedition leader (C.J.) as we prepared the night before our trip to the island--was both thought-provoking and on-point. As our fellow travelers gathered, CJ asked us which of these two replies we'd received from family and friends when we shared our travel plans for Cuba? I had not thought about it but, indeed, our family and friends did fall into two camps: "Wow, you’re going to Cuba—I’m so jealous!" Or, "Why in the world would you want to go to Cuba—Isn’t that a bit dangerous?" And you know what? I was not alone in our group of travelers. Everyone shared the same stories and perspectives from their family and friends. Cuba continues to fascinate and frustrate Americans, as we’ve carried on more than 50 years after Fidel Castro took power from Fulgencio Bastista in the 1959 Cuban Revolution.
 
Yes, Cuba is a still-life historical portrait.  Not much has changed since the '59 revolution. Someone traveling back in time wouldn’t realize it’s 2016, except for perhaps some 1980’s-era TV’s in hotel rooms or a few Soviet-era autos, along with the shinny new tour buses crisscrossing the island with eager Western tourists. The old cars that Cuba is so famous for are everywhere and in various states of repair--but they're still utilized by all Cubans for their everyday needs. However, you’re just as likely to see horse-drawn carriages transporting people and products to market as you will see old cars. These are found on side roads, small towns and major highways—highways that are large and board yet ghostly vacant with no more than a handful of vehicles.  

I have so many impressions of Cuba and it’s people. Our expedition leader and our in-country guide were full of information and completely open to our many questions--no matter how sensitive. Our travel companions were all curious about the politics of Cuban and American relations—and as you might expect, there are two sides to every story with the truth somewhere in the middle. The people we met were incredibly enthusiastic about the thawing of relations with the US. They are eager for development and new opportunities, but they’re also very proud of their country's ideals of the revolution—something that’s woven into the full fabric of Cuban society. They welcome the opening of US-Cuban relations and are happy to see their country change. But they were clear they don't want to change what’s in their heads. The goals and accomplishments of the revolution--full educational opportunities and health care for all has been accomplished. They’re not eager to give this up or believe otherwise. With virtually 100% literacy rates and good health outcomes for the majority, it’s hard to argue with that desire.

I found my Spanish useful. Since there were no limits on who we could speak with or what
we could photograph, I was able to chat with any number of regular folks on the streets, in stores and cafés. Americans are still quite rare in Cuba, as most travelers  are Europeans or Canadians. I think the questions coming my way were just as pointed. To say that we felt safe and unmolested by anyone in any situation is a complete understatement. Yes, we saw police here and there but no more or less than anywhere else we’ve traveled. Only once did I see a soldier and that was at the monument to Che Guerva, Castro’s Argentinian counterpart in revolution. Everyone just went about their business and tourists are now part of the backdrop in everyday life.


Are streets, building, stores, homes, plazas, etc. in great need of repair? Yes, but being from the city of Detroit, it all seemed quite familiar and I’ve certainly seen worse in the US and elsewhere in the world. What’s intriguing is there are so very many old buildings built in the late 19th and early 20th century, just begging to be renovated and repurposed. Between these endlessly charming old buildings and the odd juxtaposition of 1950’s era autos with these old buildings, you simply cannot be anything but charmed by the possibilities. Yes, US investment will come but I have less fear Cuban will become “Disney-ized” than before we arrived. The leadership and the people seem to have a good sense of priorities and that means not leaving anyone behind as things in Cuba start to improve economically. Already there are limitations on exterior renovations for historical buildings and those old cars will only become more valuable as new ones start to arrive.   

Perhaps the most striking observation is the lack of Castro propaganda. Remember this guy has been considered the most evil of evil-doers, on the same level as other dictators we've seen cross the world stage. And what do you find when you arrive in these other countries? Large life-like statues of these dictators in each town square, larger than life posters, billboards and painted signs everywhere you turn. Banners and flags glorifying the country’s “beloved” dictator. And when these countries fail, break apart or are conquered in war the first thing that comes down is all this propaganda. The Cuban people have overwhelmingly supported Castro through many difficult years--but what is it, the man or the ideals of the revolution? Perhaps both but what you simply do not see—anywhere—are statues, monuments, posters, flags, souvenirs, or billboards of Fidel Castro. Yes, here and there you see political references in the form of Che Guerva and the ideals of revolution, but that’s because he’s long died and considered a national hero—our George Washington. The likeness of any living politician is nowhere to be found. On the highways you will see a sprinkling of billboards glorifying the revolution, but the public promotion of Castro's influence over the decades is none existent. (I wonder, was American’s fight for independence a revolution? And was Cubans revolution a fight for
independence? Words mean something and it’s all in how you perceive these words. One man’s revolution is another man’s fight for independence.) I know that is not an original thought but try it out in your mind when you think about how negatively Cuba has been portrayed in the US press and at every level of government. Is Castro and the revolution perfect? Of course not but what is? Does the country need to continue being ignored 90 miles from Florida when we have so many greater risks to consider? And Cubans are natural entrepreneurs. They will quickly take up any opening and opportunity, work hard and hustle for a better life--even with what many might call a full "welfare state".  

The Cuban people have suffered long enough. Yes, in many ways they’ve suffered by the
hands of their own leadership. But the American policy toward Cuba, in order to make a political point, has made it much worse than was necessary and for much too long. Meanwhile during the 55 years of sanctions, we’ve "kissed and made up" with numerous countries where we once had differences—China, South Africa, Viet Nam, to name a few. Let’s call this family feud what it is and move on.  America needs more friends in the world, certainly not more enemies.  This one is right at our own backdoor, so let’s open it and invite them in, shall we?



Followers