Friday, December 16, 2011
Swanning Along...
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Hello & Goodbye--Again!
Tonight I was scrolling through the endless channel choices on my friend's big, flat screen HDTV where I came across the Discovery Channel. They were showing the program “Walking the Amazon” with explorer Ed Stafford, the first man to walk along the Amazon River--from its beginnings in the Andes of Perú to the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil--in 860 days. What a trek!! It was fascinating but what it really did for me was made me homesick and long to be in the jungle that I love. Although it’s a harsh and unforgiving place, I have the luxury of living and working near it enough to thoroughly enjoy it but at a safer, more observant distance. However you look at it, it’s the most fascinating and fragile of places. I’m so glad I live in Perú, where much less primary rainforest has been cut, unlike Brazil where the destruction seems endless. There is only one Amazon rainforest—let’s hang on to this precious environmental treasure, shall we?
So the Tuesday after Thanksgiving, I’m off again for Perú. I’ve done some public speaking while here and met with donors. I’ve also kept in close contact with the staff at CONAPAC and written funding requests and letters of introduction about our NGO in the Amazon. Whether here or in Perú, the work continues. I consider this now the next chapter of my journey in my new and different life. The last three years have been about learning the job, the culture and the language. I’ve come a long way but there is much yet to learn and more to accomplish. I’ll be working with CONAPAC for the foreseeable future as I’m eager to continue the work I’ve started. I plan to continue my blog and keep the conversation going about the happenings in the rainforest. To all my readers and followers--whoever you may be--thanks for coming along on this wide and wonderful ride!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
June found me very busy with service projects and other donor groups. As I had mentioned earlier, we have a donor out of Denver who funded a pilot project to install individual water systems in jungle homes. This was accomplished in April and the donor arrived in June to see the results. We had a great visit, the feedback from residents was very positive, and our donor shows strong signs of continuing his help with more mini-water treatment systems. We are considering the idea of installing them in classrooms, especially for smaller communities where there is no clean water system. When I’m in Denver this fall, I’ll be speaking to my donor’s church congregation with more details. This should be fun and the best part of my job—when I get to talk!! CONAPAC also hosted the annual water project review where a third party comes in and evaluates our systems. Our partnership with the University of Colorado, Boulder, has proven to be invaluable in accessing the effectiveness of our water program. Four grad students and their professor were here for a month making many visits to our communities and executing in-depth interviews with the residents. We are eagerly awaiting their final and full report sometime in August but preliminarily, we have been encouraged by the anecdotal observations which the team made before departing. However, as always, we still look forward to more suggestions for improvement!
July brought changes as CONAPAC took over the CCC Amazon Library, adding one more major project to the CONAPAC family. Started 13 years ago by Dr Nancy Dunn, the library boasts over 4,000 titles, computers, music programs, and after school instruction. There is a second branch in a community down river about 30 minutes so things are growing and we hope to add more branches soon. Dr. Dunn decided it was time to move on in her life so she gave CONAPAC the library as a gift and we have now taken full responsibility to keep it running. Megan Thomas, a former Peace Corps volunteer, who also originates from Michigan, has taken the reins and the transition is complete. In July we hosted our first Rotary water workshop. CONAPAC’s reputation for education has spread and although Rotary International does a great job building water treatment plants, they don’t have an education piece. We were hired to facilitate the first one in the jungle. It went very well and we expect to be doing more very soon. Also, in July I had the honor of a visit from one of our most committed water project donors—Janice Lee, who is the Director of the SAGA Charitable Trust from the UK. Janice’s organization has consistently funded more water projects for CONAPAC than any other entity. She was here 2 ½ year ago and thought it was time to return and see the work we are doing. She and I made several community visits and we both had a chance to really chat with folks and hear their feedback about the value of drinking clean water. Overall, a very positive and productive visit! And finally, the 28th of July was the 190th year of independence for Peru from Spain and Inauguration Day for a new president, Ollanta Humala. Peru continues to show strong economic growth and the citizens expect no less from their new president. Folks out there in the West, it’s a great time to visit Peru. If it’s not on our radar screen, it should be! And, as always, if you want a highly personalized, behind the scenes visit to the jungle and jungle communities, I’m here to be your guide!!
In Iquitos, the truly crazy process of installing a city-wide waste disposal treatment system continues. I suppose there’s some method to their madness but thus far I’ve not figured it out. Streets seem to be closed a random, but barely. Gaping holes are left for days; piles of sand and dirt are in a crazy patch work of locations; the workers make huge cement pipe transitions right in the street where they’re working; then bulldozers and backhoes freely go to work around motorcars, buses, trucks, cars and pedestrians—all of which have to jockey for an opening in which to cross the street or continue on. Western attorneys would have a field day with these non-safety minded workers and their bosses. However, somehow in Iquitos it all works as do so many other seemingly incongruent activities of everyday life. Hmmm—solution? Well, when in doubt, a cold beer!
So, this current phase of my time in Peru is quickly coming to a close. In a little over three weeks, I'll be on my way to Sydney, Perth and Cairns, Australia followed by my return to the US, mainly Michigan and Colorado. My time in Peru has been priceless and I have no regrets about the various choices I've made and the time spent in this beautiful land. Since I'll be returning here in December to continue the work I stated three years ago, I'm not leaving on any kind of bittersweet note. This is pleasing and I'm thrilled to know I'll be home again soon—namely Iquitos, Peru! But it's now time to re-connect with my family--especially Erin, Samantha and Jack--and my incredibly supportive network of friends. It's amazing how small the world really is. Email, Facebook and Skype have made my time away seem more like a trip across the country than to another hemisphere. And then there's James in Australia who has been patiently waiting five months for us to see each other again! Without technology this long distance relationship would be unlikely but with it the world is a smaller place and I'm taking full advantage of its many little joys. So watch for my postings on FB--once the TSA lets me back in the US of A--and let's make some dates to get together. I look forward to seeing each of you very soon!
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
A Season of Changes
For those of you who have followed my blog since I started it in November of 2008—first, thank you so much for your support! But second, do you remember why I started this blog? I was heading to a posting in the Peace Corps, somewhere in Africa, but then got detoured here in Perú--and what a blessing it’s been! You may also recall that this was a 27 month commitment? Well, unbelievably, the commitment will be completed at the end of this month. It’s flown by for me and now I’m at a crossroads—what to do next? Well, once again I’m blessed. I’ve heard stories of many PC volunteers, who at the end of their commitment are simply not ready to leave. But, alas, they have no choice as they must move on. Well, I can tell you that I’m not ready to leave here yet either. I feel like I’m just now coming into my own with all the programs which we’ve managing. Also, the language barrier (which is still there but much improved) has slowed me down. However, more and more I can conduct meetings and get things done in Spanish plus write and read items which come across my desk. I love the climate, the lifestyle, the people, the music, the jungle, the beer—ah! How can I leave just yet? Well, I’m not as I’ve signed on for another year and told my boss I’ll take it a year at a time but with more time off to travel. So, before things start for 2012, I will be coming back to the States for a three month visit. I do hope to see as many of you as possible when I’m in Michigan from September through November. But if not, remember Iquitos is not that far away, my home is open, my couch is free, my beer is cold and the Amazon Rainforest of Perú beckons!
In my time here, I’ve gotten accustomed to the sort of insanity that is Iquitos. I no longer look at it will fresh eyes and I take the strangest sights as just another day here. Sometimes I think nothing really changes but in the last three years, I think a lot has. There are more “regular” stores and restaurants with more to come (this is a little difficult to explain but if you ever come here you’ll understand the remark). The Internet connection here keeps getting better although by Western standards is more like dial up—but I’m thankful for any connection at all. However, I still see plenty of naked locals walking down the street, kids doing their business in the nearest gutter, live pigs and chickens being carried around for sale and motorcars bearing the weight and size of unimaginable loads of cargo. The latest, and maybe most exciting thing going on here is the whole city of Iquitos and surrounding suburbs are getting sewers! That’s right, every single home and business is going to be hooked up to a waste disposal treatment plant which will be built in the Port of Nanay. So, now every street---most of which are paved—is being dug up and sewer lines laid. How long this will all take is anyone’s guess and it makes for some very tricky detours. But in the end, Iquitos will finally step into the 21st Century and no longer be dumping its waste into the Amazon River. Do you realize how many small towns and large cities around the world still dump all their raw sewage directly into nearby lakes, streams and oceans? The majority! This will be a real feather in the cap of Iquitos, smack in the middle of the rainforest to finally become a bit more “environmentally correct”. A group of Chinese investors are making this possible. Not sure what their motivation is but hopefully it’s win-win for all. As for Belen and other floating houses on the river—well that’s a story for another day, as my photo shows!
Well, Peru has a new president—Señor Ollanta Humala. It’s been a neck and neck race and in the end, a very close call with his competitor, Kieko Fujimori. Humala has ties to Hugo Chavez from Venezuela and he’s an ex-military guy who leans quite far left with lots of populist promises. He’s not the choice of anyone with a business or major investments in Perú. The day after the elections the Peruvian stock market dropped 12.5%....hmmm…we shall see! But the good thing is the whole process was done in a very democratic way. Everyone votes (it’s mandatory) so everyone has their say. The campaign was run over the last few months with political ads and marches—all very peacefully—and in the end, the vote outcome was accepted, the peaceful transfer of power will take place later this summer, and life will go on. I’m very proud to see Perú continue forward into the future with as little fuss and muss as possible, using solid democratic principles. I’m happy to be here during this process—seeing the people of this emerging nation handle themselves in such a mature and thoughtful way is a rare opportunity.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Little Joys--Part II
• Bonnie’s cards
• Getting personal email
• A fast Internet connection
• Waking or falling asleep to heavy rain
• Nights with no disco music
• My long distance love affair
• High water season
• Mornings which always start with a glass of passion fruit juice
• The arrival of M & M’s and Girl Scout cookies
• When things actually go as planned—the first time
• Frasier re-runs on twice a day—7 AM and 8:30 PM
• My new couch
• Dead mosquitoes
• A good Skype video and audio connection—all at the same time
• Finding breakfast cereal for anyone over 10 years old
• Friendly, happy, helpful customer service—Anywhere!
• My boss, Pamela
• Completing a grammatically correct sentence (or two) in Spanish
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Peruvian Magic
Things are going well at Conapac. Adopt A School is right around the corner with deliveries starting on Monday, April 4th. A little early this year due to a late Easter but all should be ready by the appropriate day. This year we have the largest number of volunteers ever, who (through great recruiting by the Detroit Zoo) will help for two weeks handing delivery of books and school supplies then work in a river community installing clean water systems. We have a generous donor from Denver who is funding a pilot project in which we will place individual mini-water treatment plants for personal use. The community will actually have three different types of systems with families broken into zones. We will study the usage rates, ease of use, and general feedback by the population for one year. In our goal to provide access to clean water for our AAS participating communities, not every village is a candidate for a centralized system as they are small and don't warrant the investment. We hope the use of individual systems will augment the larger ones where appropriate. Our volunteers will assist in this project and become emotionally invested partners in this important work.
Probably the most exciting thing happening at Conapac right now is the addition of a new volunteer. Megan Thomas, who hales from Fremont, Michigan, had come on board for an undetermined amount of time. She first came to Peru at 17, traveling with a student group. She fall in love with the rainforest and always hoped to find her way back to Iquitos. But first she earned her degree in natural science at the University of Michigan then she fulfilled a 2 ½ year stint for the Peace Corps in Honduras. She is fluent in Spanish and brings tremendous gifts to the table of Conapac. She has been working with the students in the garden at Las Malvinas School; facilitating student service projects; and handling data collection for our donors. Shortly, she will help manage the jungle library which Conapac will soon take over; she will cover my job responsibilities when I'm in the States this fall; and in general, she has become a very good and fun friend to have around! She seems intent on making a long-term commitment to Conapac by living and working here for the next few years. We will work toward getting here a “green card” later this year. With the addition of her talents and enthusiasm, Conapac can only grow and improve thus providing the services, support and environmental education Conapac strives to bring to the residents of the Peruvian rainforest. Here in Peru, the right person always seems to come along at the right time--Welcome Megan!
Have you ever been stalked by a cat? Well, I have not until recently and at times it was almost spooky but here's the story. As I've mentioned before, dogs and cats are quite the “throw away” items here. People rarely care appropriately for these animals. Sterilization is rare and abandonment common. About four months ago a white cat would periodically mosey through my house and often cry to be fed. Since my doors are always open this is not unusual as cats, dogs, frogs, rats, etc. sometimes pass through. This cat kept coming back and the only course I had to be rid of it was to use a spray bottle of water and squirt it out the door. I did this for weeks but she kept coming back and would not take no for an answer. Then about 3 weeks ago my friend, James, arrived for a visit and he and she (the cat) took to each other right away. She was in his lap and purring and he enjoyed and encouraged this. Ugh! I was thinking, now I'll never be rid of this cat! She was very skinny and underfed but you know what happens when you start to feed a cat---I resisted but found it difficult. The tide turned when I found her under my bed in a box starting to have a litter of kittens. To add insult to injury, this poor, abandoned, malnourished cat was now knocked up and having to deal with babies. Ah, what to do? We made her comfortable in a new box and let her do her thing by leaving the box just outside my door. In the morning? No cat, no kittens, no afterbirth, nothing! I can only surmise that she ate the babies and such since she was near starving. Those of you who know me are aware that I can be a bit hardhearted when it comes to animals. I simply can't be bothered but this time I just decided it was enough and something had to be done. I bought some cat food and made a decision, with Megan's great help, to start feeding this cat, have it spayed and find it a new home. We got her healthy, AmazonCares (which I wrote about last month) handled the surgery at a reduced price, got rid of her parasites, worms and other pests then we asked around for a new owner. We found a lovely woman who works at Explorama to take the cat. So now to get her there?! Have you ever tried to take a cat in a box in a motokar in the streets of Iquitos? And to top it off, on our way there, a HUGH thunder storm kicked up so that by the time we arrived, we were soaking wet and freezing cold as the wind raised and the temperature dropped. But that sweet little cat—so trusting of me for so long—was removed from the box and easily at home in her new environment. Lesson: Persistence pays whether human or animal. I've learned something from this little cat—not to take no for an answer. But do make sure your target (victim?) is ultimately as much of a softy as I am given enough time to break down my walls :)
So, speaking of “walls”, my final comments are about my personal life. I don't often write about this in my blog but I think it's time. My life here in Iquitos has been completely different than what I call my “previous life”. I was married for 32 years, raised two children, ran a small business and generally lead a nice if somewhat boring life. Although those years were important and pleasing, at 50-something it was time for me to rock the boat and upend my life. You all know the rest of the story. Since coming to Peru to live and work, I've enjoyed a completely fun and fulfilling life on my own. I have not been looking, expecting or even wanting a love-interest let alone a “relationship”. For me it seemed to be too much work, responsibility and obligation—something I had wanted to avoid by keeping up the “walls”. But, it seems, sometimes these things find you anyway. Out of nowhere, I met James last August. He was an Australian tourist passing through the jungle for two nights. I've met many such tourists over the years, which is a great opportunity to meet folks from around the world and have some pleasant conversation in English. However, I do not ever expect to see them again. But this man, not unlike my stalking cat, would not take no for an answer. From the start, he has pursued me in the most romantic way yet kept an appropriate space for me to decide if this was want I wanted, too. Since August we've had wonderful and regular email correspondence, which is a great way to get to know someone. He has returned to Iquitos from Perth for two extended visits since. We've enjoyed each others company very much and he seems taken with me, the jungle and the possibilities that Peru affords. I will be traveling to Australia in August to meet his family and friends then he will join me in Michigan in October to meet mine.
So in the most unexpected and unforeseen way, I have fallen in love. Once more, my cup is filled beyond overflowing and I rejoice! What a wonderful life. My dear family and friends, please welcome James into my life!
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
So in my neck of the woods (Iquitos) I live among a variety of social-economic levels—but frankly, all poor and mostly living in huts on the river or in the street. They all have chickens roaming free-range plus a sprinkling of roosters. Generally, I’ve gotten used to the roosters which start crowing around 4-4:30 each morning. It’s like a snooze alarm. When I hear them, I know I have a couple more hours to sleep. But next door to me there has been a “rogue rooster” which thinks 3:30 in the morning is not unreasonable to begin his day. Monday morning he woke me out of a sound sleep--grrrrrr! So later in the day when I saw the owner, I mentioned how much “I’d like to kill that chicken”. However, I failed to use the right words –ah, the joys of a second language—and actually said, “I’d like to die that chicken”. But apparently I got my message across as she laughed and showed me the correct body language of wringing one’s neck which I heartily agreed. The next morning?--nothing!! Not a peep from my old friend. Once again the neighborhood is at peace and the smell of chicken soup waifs through the air!
FOR RENT: Many of you know I’m heading back to Michigan for 3 months this year. I’ll be there September-November. I want to keep my fabulous apartment here in Iquitos but would love to sub-let it while I’m away. Some of you have expressed a desire to experience living somewhere like Iquitos for a few months. Let me know if there’s interest out there or pass on the word to your adventuresome friends. The cost is very low by Western standards and everything is included except your food and, of course, the beer! Give it some thought—you’ll never regret the experience.
Monday, January 3, 2011
2011~Ring It In...Bring It On!
The end of December brought my daughter, Samantha, here for an eight day visit! She had been here in June of 2009 so this was a nice follow up visit. We had no particular plans but quickly filled the time with conversation, Christmas activities, excursions and a short visit to the jungle. Lots of tears were shed when she left town as she was not yet ready to leave her “mumzie” however, some good news awaited her. Out of Lima, her plane was late leaving the country by two hours thus she missed her connection in Newark back to Denver. This was when the great Christmas snow storm was just sorting itself out. She could not get a flight out until the next day plus she needed to get to La Guardia where her connection would be made. She knows no one in the area and had never been to New York City. Using her SmartPhone and Facebook, she put out the word and found someone who offered her an apartment in Manhattan for the night. Then she learned that her best friend and college roommate, Christina, (who lives in Cleveland) was going to be in the city for the night on business! They connected later in the day and hung out, caught up on news and generally enjoyed the unexpected visit together. To top all this off, when she got to the airport the next day, she found that the airline had bumped her up to first class! What a treat and an unexpected bonus—although I told her not to get used to it! She couldn't have written a better script for a nice way to end her vacation. She was able to make it home in time to get to work—she tends bar in downtown Denver and certainly New Year's Eve is the best night of the year for tips so it all turned out great. Thanks to social networking and a PMA, she rang in the New Year in a most delightful way! :)
While Samantha was here we checked out a really interesting NGO working in Iquitos. It's called AmazonCares. They pick up street dogs and bring them back to health. Stray street dogs with mange, injuries and severe illnesses run rampant here. Sterilization is almost unheard of and puppies are regularly turned out to fend for themselves. Internationally recognized AmazonCares, brings in vet volunteers to help with the process of neutering dogs and accessing care. Sam and I visited the remote shelter site where about 35-40 dogs are cared for and brought back to health while looking for a new home. Interestingly, here in the Iquitos, the stray dogs are as laid back as the people. They run in packs and sometimes fight among themselves but I've never felt threatened or uncomfortable around any of them. Many of the dogs at the shelter—all which are mutts of some kind—were so nice! I'm not much of a dog person but I could see they were just starving for a little love and attention now that they're regularly fed and cared for. Sam and I went in the common area with about 15 dogs at once. They were all over us but surprisingly well-behaved for street dogs. There are many needs here in Iquitos, human and animal. CONAPAC is looking for ways to assist AmazonCares in what its trying to accomplish. For more info check out: www.amazoncares.org
Thanks to everyone out there who continue to follow my blog posts. It's fun to do but sometimes I think I'm only doing it for myself--but when someone leaves a comment, I know I'm connecting somewhere! As I posted on Facebook, if 2011 is even the slightest bit better than 2010, my cup will not only run over but it will threaten to flood the floor! Thank you, life, for all the blessings you have bestowed upon me and know that I do not take any of them for granted—each day is a gift that I wake up to with joy, enthusiasm and acceptance. I wish nothing less for each and every one of my readers. Embrace 2011 for what it is—another year in your glorious life!