Paperwork....and More Paperwork!

Living in Peru is one thing, coming and going is another! As I’ve
mentioned before, Peru has made bureaucracy a fine art form. If one
more piece of paper, one more stamp, one more fee or one more trip to
immigrations can be thought up, it will be done. Each year, there are
“gringo taxes” to be paid and this requires several trips to the
immigration office, as certainly nothing can be done quickly and
efficiently. (Actually there are two gringo taxes but the system has
designed it so that you cannot pay these fees at the same time of the
year, thus more trips). My most recent experience required seven
trips to the office as each time my immigration officer came up with
something else I needed to do to satisfy the requirements. At first,
one gets angry and frustrated but ultimately, resigned (like everyone
who lives here, why fight “the man”?) In the meantime, during my last
two exits from the country, when I arrived at customs they were not
happy with my lack of proper paperwork to depart the country.
Basically, they want to know if I’ve paid all my taxes. I’m always
happy to meet any necessary requirements but getting a correct answer
to what those requirements are is another matter. I finally figured
out that the accountant, who does our books, needs to visit the income
tax office (SUNAT) to pick up and fill out a certain type of form.
This took her several trips to figure out, too. Finally, just days
before my latest voyage out of Peru, I essentially received permission
to “stay” in the Peru (from immigrations) and permission “leave” Peru
(from the tax office). Ironically, when I got to the immigration
officer at the airport, she looked over my Peruvian work card and my
passport and stamped me through. I said, don’t you want this paper
work--that had taken me so long to get and so many other times I’d
been lacking? Hmmm, she glanced at it and literally tossed it in a
drawer filled with all kinds of odds and ends. A tad annoying after
so much preparation but I guess better than the alternative—a Peruvian
jail!

This latest trip was a brief but fun one that gave me an opportunity
to see more of South America. James and his family arrived for a
visit to the jungle and time in Iquitos. We followed this with stops
in Cusco, Machu Picchu, Rio de Janeiro and finally Buenos Aires.
Although on the same continent, these locations, cultures, food, music
and drink couldn’t have been more different. I’d been to Machu Picchu
a few years ago and the place was no less magical. Seeing it for the
second time and now knowing much more about Inka culture, I thoroughly
enjoyed the opportunity to see it with fresh eyes. Lots of other
interesting Inka sites were visited then we were off to Rio. What a
different place this is! I had few notions of what to expect and my
first few hours there did not “wow” me. But by the end of the day, I
found the place to improve greatly. Although a very big, urban area
with tall apartment buildings crammed into any available space between
the mountains, it is essentially a beach culture. The white, sandy
beaches go on and on for miles and there is no time of the day or the
week when they aren’t teaming with sun worshipers and beachcombers.
The area is nicely developed with lots of places to buy food and drink
while beaching it. Chairs and umbrellas for rent, handy restrooms and
storage lockers, vendors selling whatever you need without having to
move a muscle. Oh, and they have lots and lots and lots of shoe
stores, ladies! Next we were off to Buenos Aires, Argentina. I found
myself very happy to be there as they speak Spanish and I could once
again communicate. Brazil is strictly Portuguese, thank you very
much! No Spanish or English spoken there. BA is very European in
dress, manner, architecture, food and even the look of the people.
One thing they have that can’t be beat is the Tango! Some of you out
there may cringe, but James is quite taken with it so there may be
lessons in our future—although I don’t know how many qualified
instructors we’ll find in either Perth or Brighton?!

Finally, October brought a lot of work at CONAPAC for this year’s
pilot project. Our intern from the University of Colorado was here
for two months and did a great job. She spent extended time in many of
our communities that have clean water systems, living and working
alongside the operators. In October, she was back in the city where
she and the CONAPAC staff spent countless hours on development of our
new operator training program. Although our water program has
developed well for being just five years old, we’ve found the
consistent weak link to be qualified operators on the village level.
The world is littered with clean water projects and good intentions
but most fall into disuse or disrepair quickly without consistently
qualified people on the ground to insure the projects continue to
function. We believe this intense operator training (to be started in
2013) is the link to lasting water projects in the communities where
we serve. Our water program continues to grow as we install more and
more water systems. The goal to provide access to clean drinking
water for all our Adopt A School communities by the end of 2015 is on
track. With the help of our donor base, CONAPAC staff, and our
partnerships with Amazon Explorama Lodges, the Detroit Zoo and the
University of Colorado, it’s been an adventure and a pleasure to work
together on this worthy goal. Stay tuned for more good water news in
the near future!

I’m now off to Perth, Australia for Christmas and most of January. I
think I've counted something like 31 airplanes that I’ve flown one this year. 
It really is a miracle to start in
the morning in one part of the world and wake up the next day on the
other side. But I’m ready for a break from airports, customs,
security and the lot. Although I’ll travel some next year, I have a
long stretch in Iquitos with much to do so the break will be welcome.
But soon enough, the travel bug will come my way and off we go! Merry
Christmas to all and a great New Year in 2013 ☺

Ancient Lands

A Proud Country

I just returned from a country that has enchanted me.  Along with its beauty and ancient history, it is an easy, safe and accessible place to get around.  Where in the world can you see endless Roman ruins; lovely beaches and seaside resorts; eat delicious, healthy food day and night; find well-maintained roads and sidewalks; see well-constructed buildings; encounter clean, public toilets in even the smallest town; find parks everywhere and well-manicured street-scapes along most highways; houses and apartments loaded with solar hot water tanks and satellite dishes; clean, new cars, trucks and buses; no litter; few stray dogs or cats; gas stations and convenience stores everywhere; no graffiti; and hard-working people providing friendly service in a country that is 99% Muslim? It can only be the Republic of Turkey!

Typical Street Market Display

I simply can’t say enough about my time there and great desire to return.  I never felt the least bit uncomfortable or unwelcome as a woman and an American.  Our group visited numerous mosques and holy sites along with fun places like Cappadocia and the city of Istanbul with its many palaces from centuries past. Despite being an overwhelmingly Muslim country, constitutionally it is secular and has no official state religion. Every city, town and village sports a mosque or two and five times a day one can hear the call to prayer. Many women (but not all) wear at least a head scarf and coat to cover arms and legs while a few wear the full, black burka. However, at no time did I feel uncomfortable or out of place even when wearing shorts, a tank top and no head covering.  Citizens are free to express themselves however they’d like.  While we were there, the US Embassy in Libya was bombed and Americans murdered, which was followed by protests in many countries over the amateur video posted on You Tube.  And what happened in Turkey where there are so many Muslims?  Nothing!  There were no protests, no show of anger, little mention in newspapers or on TV—basically people just got about their business of work, school, and home by living their lives. 

Turkish Delight

Why the difference?  I can’t say but my observation is they have a logical divide in their society that allows the state do its thing while citizens are allowed to pursue their own religion—in other words, clear separation of church and state.  In addition, the country simply works!  It’s clean, well-organized, secure, and people have access to credit and jobs.  Food and homes are available and affordable, the police are present but not oppressive, and opportunity and education are accessible to everyone.  The culture is rich and family life is the focus.  We saw no beggars or homeless anywhere on our journeys—why?  We were told it’s shameful for a family to allow such things to happen to other family members, thus the family must handle this by looking out for their own.

Ephesus

Turkey is a critical ally to the United States and a real bridge to other Middle East countries that are in such turmoil.  I think in the US we have the idea that a secular, Islamic country is not possible but there is one and it's been functioning since 1923. More Americas should have this great destination on their "bucket list". They will not be disappointed and maybe even enlightened a bit about a part of the world that consumes so much of our news, our foreign policy and our future.  I know I was! 

PS I should mention that James and I also visited Greece prior to traveling to Turkey.  Although no one can deny the beauty of Greece, especially the islands, there is no comparison between countries.  Right now, Greece is a very depressing place and there is a palatable, negative spirit in the air.  There was none of that in Turkey and I’m so glad the majority of our trip was spent there! 

U of C & CONAPAC unite

Wow-time flies!  I've been home for about month and a half and now it’s time to leave again for my next travel trip with James.  A lot of work has been squeezed into a small space but overall it’s been highly productive.  The students from the University of Colorado, who come each year to audit our water program, have come and gone.  What a great time we all had amongst a lot of hard work.  We now eagerly await the results of both the community surveys and water quality testing which were conducted in 11 villages along the Amazon and Napo Rivers.  Now our U of C intern, Lia Brune, continues on with this year’s pilot project until the middle of October.  She’ll be living and working in a variety of communities during this time.  Her goals are to observe how operators are actually treating the water not just what they tell us. She’ll then play with different outcomes from water samples looking for the optimum combination of treatment chemicals from different water sources typically used in the jungle villages where we work. Once she’s done with this part, she and our CONAPAC staff will work on training manuals and workshop modules for all our operators.  Our program of monitoring, training and testing continues to evolve with each step.  I continue to strive for excellent return on investment for my donor base and consistent quality for our water plants and the community members which they serve.  Both deserve nothing less!

Sunset in the jungle

In the middle of July, the jungle and Explorama had an unexpected guest—the President of Peru, Ollanta Humala!  He and his whole staff of ministers were in the city for a meeting on Explorama’s own Amazon Queen!  They cruised down the river and had their cabinet meeting on board.  It was interesting to see security around the visit.  Certainly nothing like our own president would have received but nonetheless, an exciting process to watch. I’d happened to return from the jungle just a short 15 minutes before he arrived.  He came through and shook many employees’ hands, including my own!  I doubt I’ll even have the chance for the same experience with a US president but I suppose I can now add this to my resume J A couple of week’s later he was back—why?  Well, in case you missed the news, the Rio Amazona or Amazon River has been voted one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the world. As you might imagine, there was a grand celebration in Iquitos with all kinds of activities, music, dances, parades, demonstrations and good fun was had all the way around.  Unfortunately, this time I missed it as I was in the jungle--but there was some live coverage on the TV at the Yanamono Lodge so I got a peak of the action. http://www.n7w.com/

Water workshop at Leon Isla

The rhythm of life continues here—the river’s up, the river’s down and it’s summer year round.  I love it but shortly I’ll be leaving for a different kind of summer as I travel to Greece and Turkey with James.  This will be my first visit the region and I’m very excited to experience a new place and culture.  James has made all the arrangements so it will be a real vacation where I won’t have to think about any details other than just showing up and enjoying myself.  Also, it will be a non-working vacation.  I will not have a computer or smart phone nor do I plan to visit Internet cafes while I’m gone other than to let my family know I’ve safely arrived.  It’s been a long time since I didn’t have to “check in the office” while I traveled.  Sunny and dry weather, beautiful landscapes, good food, good wine, good friends and a great man in my life—what more could I ever ask for?  Once again, I count my many blessings knowing that I’m a very lucky woman, indeed. 

Today is the 4th of July in Peru. The weather is perfect for a BBQ, swimming, parades and fireworks, just like home. Unfortunately, I’m working but it’s the easiest, most fun job ever so how can I complain? Most Peruvians know the date of America’s independence—do you know when the Peruvians declared theirs? July 28th and it’s a big deal here--everyone is very proud of their country. What do they do? Well, BBQ’s, swimming, parades and fireworks! I feel right at home ☺


I’m back out at Explorama Lodge (50 miles downriver from Iquitos) after having spent a wonderful month in Michigan. I’m not sure anymore which is the dream—being here or being there? This trip finds me working with a couple of groups from the North Carolina Museum, specifically educators and others interested in intense learning here in the rainforest. There are several scientist who will be speaking so a wonderful chance to learn more about where I live and work. On this trip, there are three Peruvian teachers joining the group for the week, participating in all the activities. These teachers speak some English and are part or our Adopt A School program. Their expenses are all covered by the museum and they should come away with some real insights about the jungle, teaching tips and Americans! They really seem excited about the chance to spend time with native English speakers, which is a rare opportunity. Just like me, there’s nothing like speaking and listening to the natives to learn a language well. Books just don’t cut it. 


The river has dropped dramatically since the first of June. Many crops were wiped out, such as peanuts, thus there is no peanut butter to be found in the city. We are hosting a large number of American students this summer expecting to have their P, B & J’s for lunch. Not sure how that will be received but when in Rome so I guess they’ll be eating more juanes! I noticed coming down river that rice is being planted again and little my little new crops will go in. The good thing here is plants regrow in a 1/3 of the time that one might expect in the northern hemisphere. Although there is hardship at the moment, by the end of the year, cash crops will be available for sale and life can get back to some semblance of normality. As I’ve commented before, these folks in the rainforest are resilient and pragmatic. If the “grid” ever implodes in the West, we’ll all be clueless how to survive but these folks won’t know the difference. They will continue on with their subsistent lifestyle as they’ve done for millennia.




Life goes on for me here in Perú but slowly the pull of the “West” is calling. More on that later!

As I reviewed my blog posts from 2012, I realize that each one discussed the historic flooding which took place this year. It really has consumed everyone’s attention and it still continues to impact many today who live in tents along the highway and in the rafters for their jungle homes. The waters are slowly receding but not soon enough for some. Many classes are still canceled, both in the city of Iquitos and the jungle. Villagers are still not able to rebuild as water levels remain too high. Many businesses are under water and even the local animal shelter, Amazon Cares, the only shelter in a city of 500,000 people, was destroyed. For my dog loving friends, check out: https://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/store/ars/item/49701/ 


Also for those who are interested, this is a great website by the Peruvian Navy that is updated daily. Here we watched it like a weather report each day as the water rose before our eyes: http://www.dhn.mil.pe/app/menu/servicios/rioamazonia/index.asp 


As the water recedes, new threats are posed. The CDC in Atlanta released a warning to tourists traveling in all of Loreto (the state where I live). But like the US embassy’s kidnap warning for earlier this year and last year’s dengue fever outbreak, life goes on—as it should. Recently, concerns for upcoming travelers prompted one to contact Dr. Linnea Smith, our resident American doctor who founded and still runs the Amazon Jungle Clinic. Her response was just right—she writes: “Well, I am in Wisconsin and have not heard anything in particular, but leptospirosis has always been around, especially in Belén. The flood has been so large that any animal urine is pretty well diluted, especially out where we are. (Note the CDC's mention of 'urban areas lacking sanitation" as being at higher risk). I don't advise drinking the Amazon ... but if I had to choose, I would take that water over the Wisconsin River, which not only has sewage and animal wastes but also has chemicals and pesticides that we do not have in the Amazon. The CDC has an obligation to warn everyone about everything. But there is no place in the world without risks. Right here in Wisconsin we have an outbreak of whooping cough, and there is St. Louis Equine Encephalitis and Lyme disease and histoplasmosis, oh my. Personally, I am not worried about leptospirosis”. I always appreciate Linnea’s clear-headed and practical advice. She is not an alarmist and that’s just what’s called for if you’re going to live or travel anywhere along the Amazon River or in the Peruvian rainforest. 

A fun story about how the Internet makes the world smaller. About a year ago, I wrote of two British gals who were volunteering at a nearby orphanage called Santa Monica. A few months ago, I found an interesting email in my in box from a young woman in the United States. She had been doing some research online for the Santa Monica orphanage and during the search, a link was made to the mention I wrote of it in my blog. And why was this young lady researching the orphanage? Well, she lived there until the age of 6 until she was adopted by a couple for the states! She’s from Iquitos and wrote to say she found it interesting that I’m an American living here and she’s Peruvian and living there. We had a nice conversation back and forth and made friends on Facebook. She’s now about 19 and just finishing high school due to a year’s delay. When she arrived in the US, she did not speak a word of English so this took some time to learn but kids are soooo great at picking up new languages. Her writing is flawless English and she claims to have retained none of her Spanish. However, she very much hopes to return to Iquitos one day and make a visit to the orphanage, perhaps even to help by volunteering her time. I really hope I’m still here when she makes her first visit. It will be quite the culture shock but I’m sure she retains many strong impressions of her time here and I’d love to meet her to discuss it further. 

Fore!

This past weekend was busy with last minute details before my trip home to Michigan. I’ll be there for the month of June and really look forward to seeing my family. Jack, my grandson, will be turn seven at the end of June so we’re all going to Cedar Point for the weekend. Talk about living dangerously! Before I left I attended a fun gringo gathering Sunday at the Amazon Golf Course. Yes, there is such a place and it was quite pretty. For real adventure golfers, this is the place. For $25 you get a 9 hole course, 12 balls, clubs and a machete! And you can go around as many times as you’d like. There was food and drinks and good conversation. I can’t say it was a Memorial Day weekend BBQ as many of the attendants were British but Megan and I thought of as exactly that. And from what I saw on the Michigan weather forecast, I think it was hotter and more humid there and here! In fact, a torrid jungle rain came through about 3 and cooled everything down. Once it passed, Megan and I took a turn on the course with one of the investor-owners, Bill Grimes who’s from Indiana! He and his wife, Marmelada run a local watering hole in Iquitos called Dawn on the Amazon. Anyway, the course was really beautiful and they’ve even imported some kind of crazy short grass for the greens that grows well in the tropics. Check out www.amazongolfcourse.com


I hope everyone enjoys the start of summer this weekend and I look forward to wearing only my shorts and flip-flops on this next visit to Michigan, just like here. It’s much easier to get the day started when the weather is always warm—Love it!!.

High But Not Dry

Even the chickens took to higher ground

You may have been following the news and know that the Amazon River has reached historic flood levels this year.  We've just finished delivering all the Adopt A School supplies for 2012. I had a large group of volunteers here and things went well, despite the hardships most communities are experiencing.  Fully 3/4 of the villages in our program (about 45 or so out of 58) are completely flooded.  We had to change our system this year where instead of doing 58 separate deliveries, we set up central delivery sites at the few villages not under water.  Communities were asked to come to us for pick-up as we used a floating barge for a storeroom and delivery site.  We didn't know what to expect since not everyone has the appropriate boat or canoe to make the trip. Well, we were overwhelmed with the response and thankfulness these folks showed.  Not only did the community leaders make their way but most of the children did, too.  Our normal policy is that we do not hand out a supply packet to any student who is not present--unless unforeseen circumstances come up such as a health crisis or injury.  This year we decided that if at least the teacher and/or a community leader showed up with the list of registered students we would simply hand them the number of packets they needed.  However, that was rarely necessary--except a few times as all the children and parents came.  What a great showing of commitment to education! We have been reassured that what we’re doing is making a difference in their lives, As we now move into the 20^th year of Adopt-A-School, we look forward to whatever challenge Mother Nature might throw our way!

Sunset on the Napo River

It was great fun for me to see many returning faces and friends who came back to volunteer again this year--and new friendships have been formed along the way, as well.  Our second group of volunteers arrived at the end of week one deliveries. They handled mop-up deliveries then we next moved to community service projects.  This year we helped rebuild a community playground, a new concrete water plant, and we did many fun craft projects for the kids along with games, songs and dancing.  One of our favorite songs which the volunteers sang this year for the community was “Take Me Out To The Ballgame”.  I don’t know what they all thought about that but we sang it as a group several times and I know we had a blast!!

Lynn with a student

In total we welcomed 23 volunteers recruited through the Detroit Zoo. One volunteer who came was my dear friend, Lynn Cluskey from Brighton, Michigan. As you know, I don’t get much company from home so it was a rare treat to have a good friend come for a visit.  She arrived a few days before AAS started so we had quality time to catch up with each other and enjoy the nuttiness of Iquitos.  Then we headed down river and Lynn was quite concerned about mosquitoes and other unidentified flying objects but she was quite the trooper and managed well even with cold showers 6 days in a row. It was great fun to have her along and I hope she took home a souvenir of memories she’ll never forget. Thank you to all Zoo volunteers, Pamela and Nancy, CONAPAC and Explorama staff, guides, boat drivers and department of education volunteers for making this year so much fun! 

Pest Report II

Rats? Ants? Mosquitoes? Over the last few years I’ve written many times about the trials and tribulations of these various annoying pests. However, for whatever reason they have been quite out of sight for months. In fact, since I returned from the US in December, I’ve not seen a single ant in my apartment, even if I leave food out or dirty dishes in the sink. It’s like the whole village or army just picked up and moved away--very strange. And although a rat got trapped in my house overnight a few months ago and ate its way out through the screen, they too have been quite remote. And mosquitoes? Well, that's a given but truly they're much worse in Michigan. Does this mean I am now animal/pest-free? Well, no. My latest guest has been some giant frogs that seem to find their way in the house while the doors are open and then hide under my bed. A few weeks ago one was found flopping and hopping about and we (me and James in the middle of the night) finally persuaded him out the door after much confusion. Again last night we heard this weird sound and knew the frog was inside again but couldn’t find him. Back to sleep. Then awhile later, I heard all these bottles tipping about on the floor. In my kitchen I had several empty wine bottles for recycle waiting by the door. The frog had found his way there and like bowling pins they were toppling all over the ceramic floor and woke us up like an alarm. This time, we easily found him and sent him on his way. I guess we need to do an under-bed check now but I’d much prefer these huge frogs (or are they toads?) in the house than rats or ants any day!

The river is rising…and rising…and rising! Will it end soon? Not sure but based on Peruvian Navy maps and charts it’s shaping up to be a record year for high water season. Can there be any snow left in the Andes or a glacier? Yes, it’s rained for months here and that adds to the river levels so the combination is proving to be a complete reversal from last year’s historic low water levels. Wow, do I feel like a yo-yo here. The good news is the weather has been very cool, fresh and breezy for months. Truly, you would never know you were 3º south of the equator here. But just like the US had a mild, almost snowless winter, we’ve hardly seen the sun for months. I love it! I just hope the cool weather now holds out for the Adopt-A-School deliveries which begin in just over three weeks. The photo above is at one of the lodges where they dug up the ornamental plants and moved them to higher ground. Next it will be the whole lodge. Adopt-A-School deliveries are going to be very interesting this year!

Big news in Iquitos is there is a high-level security warning out by the US Embassy in Lima that Westerners (read Americans) are considered kidnapping and ransom targets here in Iquitos--seems pretty insane to me! For the first time, the Embassy actually sent a representative to meet with interested ex-pats. Yes, there are people who find their way here to hide out from something or escape from somewhere but not because they have lots of money. This would be Cayman Island stuff where there are hidden bank accounts and such. Or Columbia or even Lima but Iquitos? One of the grubbiest, most unattractive places you will find but it does have heart and that’s why we all seem to love it so. I have no doubt there are few, if any, wealthy Americans here worthy to be kidnapping targets in this part of Perú. None the less, I’ve been advised to alter my route to work (kind of tough to do) and not become to conspicuous or stand out from the locals (impossible to avoid) so I guess I just keep on being me and hope I don’t get run over by a motorcar or fall into an open hole in the street—frankly a much more likely possibility in my opinion.

Finally, once again all the wonderful people I’ve met over the years here in Perú have slowly been making their way back to Iquitos this winter—some folks migrate to Florida but others come to Perú and I’m glad they do. It’s starting to feel like regular family members passing through for the holidays. Thanks to Dave and Dottie Bonnet who always have a kind word for our work here AND bring me, Pam and Megan lots of fun gringo goodies in their luggage. Then Ron Rossi and his Sacred Heart student-volunteers are a wonderful addition to my life. La Doctora has been here since January keeping us all on our toes. My newest friend (pictured here) is Connor from Georgia. His grandmother, Pat Sullivan brought him down for his first visit to the Amazon. I have no doubt he’ll be back again! Soon Pachita will be here and all the AAS volunteers—old and new. Plus for almost a month James has been visiting from Perth. We’ve had a great time doing nothing—it’s really a gift, you know? We’re becoming quite talented at this (kind of like retirement) and look forward to more of the same as we travel around the world. Learning to enjoy the most basic daily routine, even in the middle of the rainforest, is a wonderful way to live one’s life. Learning to just BE is not easy but it has its rewards.

Hasta el mayo mis amigos—gracias para tu interese en mis palabras del Perú!

Rain & Rats

Rain, rain and more rain here in the rainforest! Hmmmm, well I guess that’s the point but truly this has been a particularly well year so far. February has proven to continue with much rain over the weekend that poor Megan woke up to a flooded house today—what a way to start a Monday! Not too much damage but a hassle for sure and a mess to clean up. The river is unusually high for this time of year but I have to say so much prettier. You see less debris on the shoreline and fewer sandbars. However, high water, so early in the season, has been a hardship for communities who normally plant rice in the fall and harvest it six months later. This is done on the sandbars which form when the water goes to its lowest level. Unfortunately, with the river rising prematurely this year, rice crops have been lost and/or the growing season cut short. Last year, the river was too low in the winter and villagers had a hard time getting into the city due to dried up streams which lead to the main river--quite a long way to carry a canoe. This year they can get to the markets in Iquitos but they don’t have much to sell. Ah, Mother Nature!

Rats, unfortunately, don’t drown when the water comes up but instead seek higher ground like homes and lodges. I wonder why God didn’t make it so that rats couldn’t swim--wouldn’t that have been sweet justice and kept down overpopulation? But I digress—anyway, rats have been showing up more in the lodges and areas where normally they’re not found. I recently lost a piece of the temple for my glasses due to a rat. I’d left my glasses on the night stand while staying at the Lodge and in the morning the whole end was clipped neatly off—like someone took a pair of pliers to them. There’s enough remaining to hold onto the side of my head but just! I will have that temple replaced later this year when I’m in Michigan—thanks Heidi and Mark! They love to come in and chew up things to make nests and trim their teeth. Nothing can be left out overnight or they move right in. More toads have turned up, too, as they’ve been flushed out in the city by all the rain. However, for some reason they just don’t seem as scary and spooky as rats are but instead a delight when they come hopping into my house. :)

Things are heating up at CONAPAC as Adopt-A-School starts in two short months. Our first full year managing the new library is underway and we’re excited about all the possibilities. This year, we’ve found donors to support two students from our AAS and Library program to attend university level classes in Iquitos. This is a three-year commitment from the donor, the student and the parents who will need to provide support for living expenses. We’ve hired a new full time staff member to run our water program and this year we’ll build six more water plants. The University of Colorado students will be back to do their yearly audit in July after which one of the student will stay behind as an intern for 3-4 months. This year we’re developing a pilot project to make the training, testing and monitoring of our water plants more sustainable. We will teach and pay locals on the ground to learn how to be water techs and make regular visits for on-going support to communities who have water treatment facilities. We have lots of service projects lined up for the summer for visiting Explorama guests and in the fall, the annual spelling bee, evaluations and Christmas concert with be held. For me, I’ll be traveling more. Although I’ve signed a new 3-year contract with CONAPAC, I’ll be taking more time off to visit family and seeing the world with James. Yes, I’m going to have a very mobile/global office!