CUBA: Wow!! or why?? This question--asked by our
expedition leader (C.J.) as we prepared the night before our trip to the island--was both thought-provoking and on-point. As our fellow travelers gathered, CJ asked us
which of these two replies we'd received from family and friends when we shared
our travel plans for Cuba? I had not thought about it but, indeed, our family
and friends did fall into two camps: "Wow, you’re going to Cuba—I’m so
jealous!" Or, "Why in the world would you
want to go to Cuba—Isn’t that a bit dangerous?" And you know what? I was
not alone in our group of travelers. Everyone shared the same stories and
perspectives from their family and friends. Cuba continues to fascinate and frustrate Americans, as we’ve carried on more than 50 years after Fidel Castro took power from
Fulgencio Bastista in the 1959 Cuban Revolution.
Yes, Cuba is a still-life historical portrait. Not much
has changed since the '59 revolution. Someone traveling back in time
wouldn’t realize it’s 2016, except for perhaps some 1980’s-era TV’s in hotel
rooms or a few Soviet-era autos, along with the shinny new tour buses crisscrossing the
island with eager Western tourists. The old cars that Cuba is so famous for are
everywhere and in various states of repair--but they're still utilized by all
Cubans for their everyday needs. However, you’re just as likely to see horse-drawn carriages transporting people and products to market as you will see old cars. These are found on side roads, small towns and major highways—highways that are
large and board yet ghostly vacant with no more than a handful of vehicles.
I have so many impressions of Cuba and it’s people.
Our expedition leader and our in-country guide were full of information and
completely open to our many questions--no matter how sensitive. Our travel
companions were all curious about the politics of Cuban and American
relations—and as you might expect, there are two sides to every story with the
truth somewhere in the middle. The people we met were incredibly enthusiastic
about the thawing of relations with the US. They are eager for development and new opportunities, but they’re also very proud of their country's ideals of the
revolution—something that’s woven into the full fabric of Cuban society. They
welcome the opening of US-Cuban relations and are happy to see their country change. But they were
clear they don't want to change what’s in their heads. The goals and
accomplishments of the revolution--full educational opportunities and health
care for all has been accomplished. They’re not eager to give this up or believe otherwise. With
virtually 100% literacy rates and good health outcomes for the majority, it’s
hard to argue with that desire.
I found my Spanish useful. Since there were
no limits on who we could speak with or what
we could photograph, I was able to
chat with any number of regular folks on the streets, in stores and cafés. Americans are still quite
rare in Cuba, as most travelers are Europeans or
Canadians. I think the questions coming my way were just as pointed. To say that
we felt safe and unmolested by anyone in any situation is a complete
understatement. Yes, we saw police here and there but no more or less than
anywhere else we’ve traveled. Only once did I see a soldier and that was at the
monument to Che Guerva, Castro’s Argentinian counterpart in revolution. Everyone just went about their business and tourists are now part of the backdrop in everyday life.
Are streets, building, stores, homes, plazas, etc. in
great need of repair? Yes, but being from the city of Detroit, it all seemed
quite familiar and I’ve certainly seen worse in the US and elsewhere in the
world. What’s intriguing is there are so very many old buildings built in the
late 19th and early 20th century, just begging to be
renovated and repurposed. Between these endlessly charming old buildings and
the odd juxtaposition of 1950’s era autos with these old buildings, you simply
cannot be anything but charmed by the possibilities. Yes, US investment will
come but I have less fear Cuban will become “Disney-ized” than before we
arrived. The leadership and the people seem to have a good sense of priorities
and that means not leaving anyone behind as things in Cuba start to improve
economically. Already there are limitations on exterior renovations for historical buildings and those old cars will only become more valuable as new ones start to arrive.
Perhaps the most striking observation is the lack of
Castro propaganda. Remember this guy has been considered the most evil of
evil-doers, on the same level as other dictators we've seen cross the world stage. And what do you find
when you arrive in these other countries? Large life-like statues of these dictators in
each town square, larger than life posters, billboards and painted signs
everywhere you turn. Banners and flags glorifying the country’s “beloved”
dictator. And when these countries fail, break apart or are conquered in war
the first thing that comes down is all this propaganda. The Cuban people have overwhelmingly supported Castro through many difficult years--but what is it, the man
or the ideals of the revolution? Perhaps both but what you simply do not
see—anywhere—are statues, monuments, posters, flags, souvenirs, or billboards
of Fidel Castro. Yes, here and there you see political references in the form of Che Guerva and the ideals of revolution, but that’s because he’s long died and considered a national hero—our George
Washington. The likeness of any living politician is nowhere to be found. On
the highways you will see a sprinkling of billboards glorifying the revolution, but the public promotion of Castro's influence over the decades is none existent. (I wonder, was American’s fight for independence a
revolution? And was Cubans revolution a fight for
independence? Words mean
something and it’s all in how you perceive these words. One man’s revolution is
another man’s fight for independence.) I know that is not an original thought
but try it out in your mind when you think about how negatively Cuba has been
portrayed in the US press and at every level of government. Is Castro and the
revolution perfect? Of course not but what is? Does the country need to continue being ignored 90 miles from Florida when we have so many greater risks to consider? And Cubans are natural entrepreneurs. They will quickly take up any opening and opportunity, work hard and hustle for a better life--even with what many might call a full "welfare state".
The Cuban people have suffered long enough. Yes, in
many ways they’ve suffered by the
hands of their own leadership. But the American
policy toward Cuba, in order to make a political point, has made it much worse than was necessary and for much too long.
Meanwhile during the 55 years of sanctions, we’ve "kissed and made up" with numerous countries where we once had
differences—China, South Africa, Viet Nam, to name a few. Let’s call this family feud what it is and move on. America needs more friends in the world,
certainly not more enemies. This one is
right at our own backdoor, so let’s open it and invite them in, shall we?