Rounding A Mountain

Getting back to the mountains of Perú after three years was a great lesson in contrasts. I had forgotten how incredibility peaceful and quiet the mountain communities are and how much I remembered liking them. I was once again taken with the makeup of Perú and although a relatively small country, it is full of contrasts. The jungle is so utterly different than the mountains yet here they both are in the same country, just a short plane ride away. After now having lived in Iquitos (with all its noise and hustle) plus spending a large amount of time in the jungle, I was doing a lot of comparing. As I said, the mountains are sooooooooo quiet that it’s a bit eerie. One would think of the jungle as being a quiet, peaceful place but really it’s not! There is always movement and sound from the birds and mammals above, to the breeze flapping and moving leaves, to branches and large palm leaves that randomly fall, and then down to the smallest ants and termites which are in perpetual motion. It almost seems one can see, feel and hear the foliage as it grows so quickly in this climate along with the constant cycle of rot and decay, renewal and rebirth. Perpetual energy I would say which really does not lend itself to a peaceful environment on the most basic level. The local people in the mountains (the Quechuas) were as colorful as ever in their daily, traditional dress but I think they live a much more difficult life than the residents of the rainforest. Their environment is cold and harsh, windy and dry with little ability to grow crops, hunt or fish. In contrast, rainforest residents have daily portions of protein in the form of fish and eggs plus a variety of fruits to augment their overall starchy diet of rice, plantains and yucca. The Quechuas eat a disproportionate amount of potatoes which leads to a different kind of malnutrition than one commonly thinks of. This creates stunted growth and delayed intellectual development. Although both groups are living extremely basic lifestyles (hand to mouth, if you will) one does not see rampant malnutrition here. In both places, there is a push for clean drinking water so it was great opportunity to see the differences between the centralized systems CONAPAC is using and the individual bio-sand filters being used in the mountains. In the conclusion of contrasts, I most definitely thought the food we ate, its variety and creativity, was far superior in the mountains than to anything in Iquitos, but I think the music here is much better and the people are far happier and more fun-loving. So, my visit was enjoyable and I had a great time with my volunteer-friends from the States (some of whom generously brought me “reinforcements). But I was glad to return home, get warm again and ease back into my life in Iquitos. Next I hope to explore the most southern parts of Perú in Arequipa and Puno and maybe even a quick trip over the border to Bolivia! :)

Before I left town I had the dubious opportunity to part-take in an “ayahauska” ceremony. Ayahauska is a jungle root that has hallucinogenic properties. It’s been used by shamans for centuries to cleanse one of bad “spirits” and make room for good ones. There is quite an industry for it around here and people come from all over the world to participate in these rites and rituals. Some folks will repeat the experience many times over and some have even stayed long-term to be more accessible to the experience or train to become shamans themselves. Since I’ve been here, I’ve been quite curious but never went out of my way to seek it out. As I mentioned in my last blog, my upstairs neighbor was here run retreats and is on her way to becoming fully trained in shamanic practices. She asked me if I’d be interested to try it before she departed and I thought, why not? Since I knew her I figured it was the right time to give it a try. We went to a lodge about an hour from Iquitos and another hour’s walk into the jungle. There were a variety of people there, young and old, and by about 8 PM we got started. The shaman began and continued with a lot of chanting and other rites which I know virtually nothing about. An hour into the ceremony, a helper passed around a cup with the ayahuaska drink for each person to take their portion. Prior to this each person was given his or her own “puke” bucket—sound like fun? Well, after drinking the most disgusting thing you will even try, we waited. And what were we waiting for? Well, to puke, of course!! Yep, that’s the good part. This stuff makes you vomit and for some, even immediate diarrhea. And you don’t vomit just once—oh no!--But at least three times and for some, more. Each round of vomiting is supposed to be a purging of your “bad” stuff and an “opening” for new things in your life. During this vomit phase, most people started to see visions and these can take on endless forms and significances. Each person was then brought to the shaman for further spiritual cleansing and insights. The shaman “sees” things in and about the person and shares his revelations. Well, for me I neither saw any visions nor felt any purging other than to be thoroughly disgusted. The ceremony went on for over four hours and all I could think about was my bed. To top it off, the shaman’s vision for me was to see “toads” in my body. Now I have no idea what that means but it sure doesn’t conjure up the same feelings I suppose butterflies or flowers might have done. So along with my invasive rats at home, I now have toads to add to my current life in the rainforest. My companions, Mags (the neighbor) and her American friend, Dan, have been involved in hundreds of these ceremonies. Dan, who’s in his early 60’s, moved here full time to pursue the ayahauska experience on a deeper, and I assume, more regular basis. As I’ve said before, except for me, every other ex-pat that lives in Iquiots is quite mad! :) So to sum it up, I’m glad I tried it but clearly I don’t have an addictive personally because no one could ever pay me enough to try it again. Perhaps I’m too much of a cynic, especially a religious one, to take any of it seriously? I think for now, if I want an “other world” experience, I’ll stick to my ice, cold Pilsen beer, fresh-brewed in Lima and delivered to my doorstep in cases! I know some of you think I’m a bit complex but really, my needs are very simple :)

Final fun notes. Last week my brother and I shared one of those emails about obsolete words and items that you remember from your youth. You know the kind that your kids look at you sideways when you bring these words up? Well, that got us started on some memories from our childhood. Some were uniquely from our shared, family experiences and some were more general. That first day, we went back and forth with about 15 emails, each of us coming up with long lists of memories. It carried on for several days and I found myself waking up in the middle of the night and making notes! Even this week I’ve come up with a few more and we’re still in the 60’s! Anyway, it was a great diversion and I highly recommend anyone who can, to take a shared walk down memory lane with their siblings. I finally found someone I really like to cut my hair. It’s been so difficult in the almost two years I’ve been here to be satisfied but I think I finally hit pay dirt. Not only is the guy just two blocks from my house but he charges S/.5—with a tip and the current rate of exchange this is $2.12. Now I can continue to afford my ridiculously expensive hair products which I can only get in the States and continue having my friends bring with them on their visits to Perú.

You all may have heard about the floods and landslides in Perú last week? Well, the area where all this happened was exactly the area I was in with my volunteer friends to set up the eye clinic. There were 17 of us and we served over 600 area residents with eye examinations and glasses. Several of our group had gone to Manchu Picchu on the train that was later washed away. The last weekend we were there, the heavy rains started and we experienced them during our stay in Cusco. We departed on Sunday afternoon and it was the next day that all hell broke loose. Our timing could not have been more perfect and everyone made it home safely! It was a wonderful team of friends who helped at the KausiWasi Medical Clinic in Qoya, Perú. I can’t leave without a “shout out” to them all: Heidi, Norm, Lorna, Mark, Becky, Ray, Nancy, Dennis, Carol, Katie, Dick, Jeff, Chad, Colleen, John and my special buddy, Ed! Hope to see you all again in 2011.

Round II, Living In Peru!

Well, 2010 starts my second full year living in Iquitos, Perú. As most of you know, my "old life" is very different from my current circumstances. Many people ask me if I am happy with the decisions I've made to move to South American? I have to say, I'm still waiting for the day I wake up and say to myself, "what was I thinking?"! But so far it hasn't happened and if one is lucky enough to live two lives in a lifetime, then I think I'm one of them! It's never too late to follow your heart--just do it!

Life is nothing if not ironic. I've faced this reality often in my life and always have to chuckle. My latest observation is the magnificent mango tree in the garden area where I live. In fact this tree is so big that the owner designed the apartment building around the trunk and upper branches. I am lucky enough to live somewhere where fresh fruits and vegetables are available every day. I love veggies but by and large fresh fruit is not my most favorite thing. I do like a few things like pineapple and berries but not too much else. However, mangoes are another story. I used to love them so much and they were always such an exotic treat. But about 3 years ago, while here in the jungle, I had a terrible allergic reaction to eating mangoes. It seems the skin of mangoes is related to poison ivy and I suppose here in the rainforest the skin is even more potent. My face swelled so badly that I had to go to the clinic for a quick steroid shot before the swelling reached my throat. Since then I have not eaten a mango but many times I have been sorely tempted. Well, I guess it was mango season here right after Christmas. The tree outside my door ripened and for over 3 weeks, mangoes rained down like bombs all day and night. Some of you who live in Michigan know the feeling of dodging acorns in the fall? Well, imagine dodging mangoes! And in the night, when they would fall on the metal roof outside my door, I thought a gun went off! The irony of all this is that here I am, living in paradise where not only are fresh mangoes as common as potatoes in the market, for a few weeks each year they are literally falling on my head only to be collected and given away! As I said, life can be ironic! Now why couldn't it have been a canoloupe tree, which I happen to dislike with a passion?

As I was doing a little Christmas shopping, I found my favorite new store--a Radio Shack! Can you believe it? There is not a single chain store in all of Iquitos except this Radio Shack. It only opened about 6 months ago and I sure hope they can get enough business to stay open. It is so fun to go into a store that feels like something in the States. Clean, bright, cool, with the items hanging on pegs so you can touch them and look at the details on the packaging. Most stores here have all the merchandise behind glass counters and you have to find someone to take it out for you to examine one at a time. Radio Shack has all kinds of fun electronic gadgets which up till now were not available in Iquitos. I've bought a new travel alarm and a radio with an IPod dock. I love 'em both! I find it interesting that Radio Shack has been around in the States, it seems, forever and well before computers were common. As other giant electronic stores have come and gone, RS has changed with the times and carried on but never gotten so big with their "bricks and mortar" stores that they went out of business. Anybody got stock in Radio Shack? If so, I suggest you keep it!

While doing some Christmas shopping this year, I was in a store one evening and there was a blackout. Although common, it is a particularly scary thing as they do not have emergency lights (only candles) and when the power goes out they quickly shut all the doors to keep down thefts. The stores and the street lights are not on separate circuits so everything goes black, inside and out! You've heard my stories about the horrible sidewalks in Iquitos with holes, cracks, uneven payment from store to store, steps up and down, manhole and electrical covers missing, etc. Trying to avoid these hazards when there is light is tough enough but in a blackout it's something else! Then you have to worry about personal thefts although I never carry a purse so I feel very secure. You will rarely see woman wearing necklaces of any kind as they regularly get ripped off with a quick yank. Unfortunate, but the trade-off here is that the only real crime is petty theft. Violent crime is virtually unheard of and rarely, if ever, do you see road rage--although it is well-deserved. I can live with this level of security to be safe in a city with almost 500,000 people.

I went to my first Chinese restaurant here for dinner one night. When one first comes to Iquitos it's striking how many Chinese restaurants there are--called "chifas"--which I understand to mean Chinese food. Apparently, there is quite a Chinese presence all over Peru and much of the cuisine has been influenced by that culture. Well, things are not very clean here and even in the States I'm not all that keen about eating out--especially after having worked in plenty of restaurants in the past. And,of course, in the States, Chinese restaurants have an even worse rap but for good reason, I'm sure. So I'd been hearing about this one restaurant in Iquitos that had the best Chinese food and supposedly the cleanest reputation. A friend talked me into going one night and it really was very good! The wantons in particular where lovely. So as we were eating I told him that I rarely eat in Chinese restaurants and that this was my first time in Iquitos. He asked why and I told him about the bad reputation they have for cleanliness in the States. He laughed and said that he thought that was only true in Perú as everyone here feels the same way!! So there you go---watch where you eat no matter what country you're in.

The War On Rats & Ants: Well, in reality the "battle" with these two facts of my life since I will never win the war. The rats have returned and last week they completely upended my kitchen! I thought I heard some strange happenings in the night. When I got up, my kitchen was tossed--bottles and cans tipped onto the counter tops, a glass off a shelf broken with glass on the floor and general mayhem. I did not have any fruit out on the counters that night like usual (which they like to nibble on) so they must have been upset and ransacked the place looking for something to eat. Then I could hear them inside my stove. Apparently they like to curl up in the insulation to sleep! So the next day, it was back to the landlord to get him to button up more holes in the screens and put chicken wire on the back and bottom of my stove. As for the ants, they are relentless and when I cook or bake, no food can stay out for long. I have a very small, under counter refrigerator so I have to be careful how much food I can have around the house at one time. I've tried sprays and I keep things meticulously clean but alas, it's a losing war as they will never go away. I've decided to accept them in a small area of my kitchen. They stay in one corner and seem to come and go only in this place if I leave them a small offering of sugar. As with the rats, it's not a matter of getting rid of them completely--it's simply not possible. I can only "manage" their presence in some way that is acceptable to me. I wonder if we all shouldn't take some lessons from the "pests" of the world? Just like our dubious "war on poverty", "war on drugs" or "war on terrorism" we really have to accept that some things will never go away. We might be better served by managing them within boundaries which we can reasonably live with. Some of life's lessons come in the smallest forms!

I'm off to the mountains next week. It will be a lovely change of scenery and climate plus the joy of seeing old friends. I'll be in touch with my next adventures very soon--xo to all!

Year End News Tidbits!

"Meetings On The Edge" by Mags MacKean--A High-Level Escape from the Office Routine. This is a book I've just read and thoroughly enjoyed. And all the more reason because the author currently lives in the apartment above me--I just get to meet the most interesting people here! I met this gal about 6 months ago when she moved in but because of my crazy schedule and hers, it was only 2 weeks ago that we connected over dinner. She has the most proper British accent which I was so curious about against my Midwestern twang. Turns out she was a BBC radio and TV correspondent for about 10 years before giving it up to climb mountains all over the world. Her stories about the people she met along the way, the personal challenges of hiking alone for weeks on end, and climbing difficult mountains in organized groups was a most intriguing read. I had the opportunity this week to spend an evening with her and, of course, I had a number of questions. So often I've read a book and wished I could inquire more about the author's thinking. This was a rare treat to have the opportunity to dig deeper. She's been here to study "Shamanism" from learned shamans in the rainforest. Before she departs, she's going to give me an "energy session". I have no idea what this will be but it can't hurt! :) Unfortunately, she will be leaving Iquitos in January and returning to the UK, but I'm delighted to have known her if only for a brief time.

My other neighbors, Christie and David from the University of Colorado have left town for a month and I will miss them over Christmas. However, we did share Thanksgiving dinner at a restaurant which floats in the middle of the river in front of my house. It's a very cool ride out to the place which is in a palm covered boat with a "peque-peque" motor on the back. It was a sultry night with this crazy lighting show in the distance--this added to the drama. As for Christmas, I'm continuing my "cookie ministry" by making cookies, candy and dessert bars which I started last week and have been freezing. I plan to make Christmas gift bags and give them to various people I know either at the office, my neighbors and some of the people I see each day along the street on my walk to work. For Christmas dinner, who knows? I have discovered a new pizza place right around the corner from my house which is actually pretty good. They have a pizza oven that is heated with wood so the crust is great and the toppings decent. I can't say much for their red sauce but it's the best I can seem to get here. They do give you a wonderful "crema" which is a white garlic sauce so I add that to the top :) Each Friday night has now become "pizza night" just like back it the States so maybe this year it will be Christmas dinner too?

More animal stories: I've had some more rat problems, big and small. I have two sizes of metal rat traps but so far I can't seem to catch the little devils...not that I really want to deal with the consequences! I was trying to set the large one the other day--and I mean huge!--when it let go fully on my right thumb. It was so dumb and so shocking that I absolutely started laughing and laughing and just couldn't stop until my stomach hurt. My thumb immediately swelled and turned a greeny-purple color. I didn't break it but it was my right thumb and typing was no fun! Then recently, I was in the jungle for a couple of weeks. One day while at the lodge on the Napo River, I walked out to the sundeck and was immediately attacked by a wild parrot in the chest. I've been around these birds many times over the years and they've never been the least bit aggressive. Why this time I have no idea? I then got up to move to another chair and he/she/it attacked me again, this time in the arm and drawing blood. What is it with animals biting me lately when I'm just minding my own business?

I'm looking forward to my January trip to Cusco, which is in the mountains of Perú. A bunch of friends from Michigan (and you know who you are!) will be coming to set up an free eye clinic. I'm looking forward to spending time with old friends and getting together to volunteer once again. This is the same group of folks whom I went with on my very first international volunteer trip to Honduras in 2003. That trip was the first step to set me on the course which ultimately took me here and all these friends have been greatly supportive along the way. It should be a great time and I'll let you know how it all goes. After that, it will be nothing but Adopt-A-School until the end of May--but then that will bring into Iquitos a whole another set of old friends for visiting, volunteering with generally a good time to be had by all!

Hot off the press--I just got word that one of my grant applications for 2010-for $25,000--was approved in full! I am just thrilled to be able to receive this money for the construction of four new water treatment plants, water workshops and support for gasoline and logistics. Our donor partner, the SAGA Foundation, is from the UK. They were quite generous for the first time this year in providing funding so it's just a delight to see they're committment continue. I guess I still have a position here and we're in business for another year!

Have a great couple of weeks and I'll catch you all in the New Year...seems like yesterday we were freakin' about Y2K. Glad to be still around ten years later. Take care one and all!

ox

It's Official!

I am now a permanent resident of Perú. I have my "green card" with permission to live and work in the country for more five years. Now I don't know as I'll stay that long but it will certainly make the time, trouble and money worth the effort. It's been a long and winding road to get here and, as expected, it was capped off with a truly Peruvian experience to receive the card. As you may recall, I spent time in Lima at the beginning of October, running around town with a lawyer to this place and that, having copies made of documents, my photo and fingerprints taken, even my teeth were checked and counted (I supposed to identify the body :). That part was for InterPol so I guess I cleared all the international checks! Once back in Iquitos the attorney here drafted a work contract which he had to submit to the local government for approval. The point of this was to convince the local authorities that no Peruvian could do my job—I guess it worked. Once we had the local approval, it was sent off to Lima for the regional government to approve. This surprisingly went quickly and before I knew it, Pam told me I had to return to Lima for the day to appear in person, once again, at immigrations. Neither of us had a clue as to the outcome but we knew it was one more step that had to be taken.

Pam booked me a morning flight to Lima with a return flight later that same evening. I got to the airport early and right away something didn't seem right. Well, it turns out she booked my flight backwards-Lima/Iquitos/Lima! So after many phones calls, the flight was changed but because it was later in the day, I was going to have to spend the night in Lima. The attorney said there would be no way we could get things done in one day. With me I had my money, a book, gum and some lip gloss--nothing else. I figured I’d just buy a toothbrush and anything else when I got there! So I arrived in Lima at 11:30, the driver was waiting and whisked me off to immigrations where I found the attorney. We went inside and lots of action and chaos ensued with me understanding very little. I was called into an office, asked some questions, they look a very bad picture of me, and I signed my name and waited. Less than an hour later, my name was called and they handed me my ID card and returned my passport--it was a done deal! Even the lawyer was surprised and said he didn't expect this to happen so fast. I looked at my watch and it was only 1 PM. So I called Pam and said, hey, we're done. Is there any reason to stay the night? Ten minutes later she called me back and said you're booked on the 4 PM flight to Iquitos. I was back in a taxi to quickly return to the airport. I had a fast lunch, ran into a friend for some ice cream, completely forgot to buy the Dunkin' Donuts I promised another friend in Iquitos, raced through the exit taxes and screening and made it to the gate just in time. There waiting to catch the same flight was Ari, Pam's husband and Jimmy, my landlord. I chatted with them both and it was fun to see people I know in a strange airport--althought I swear I know the Lima airport better that Detroit-Metro! Jimmy had been in England for two months and was just returning. So we chatted in line, sat next to each other on the plane and really caught up on all the news. Once home, we shared a moto-kar since I had no luggage and we were home by 6 PM. I truly think it was the quickest trip anyone has ever take to Lima and I have to say I was a little disappointed I didn't have more time there. I was really hoping for a minute or two to go shopping...you know? at least for some cereal! :)

As for other news here, I've been in and out of the jungle several times this last month for various reasons. I've met some great tourist guests and one night found myself chatting together with a couple from China, a couple from Germany, and the Spanish guide. Of course we were all speaking in English. I was thinking what a small world it is and how great it is to have such a universal language as English so we could all communicate! There have been quite a few violent storms and lots of rain. My tropical plants are lovin' it and it makes me feel like I actually have a green thumb, which we all know is not true. I have had several frog encounters, one of which become by "wine charm" for the evening. He was this little tiny thing, about the size of my thumb nail, but he had big, padded feet and wonderful color. He crouched on the base of my glass and didn't budge for about an hour while I continued to drink my wine. I've done some entertaining, having a few friends over for dinner. I've made some interesting desserts from the recipes I brought from the States, which get quickly eaten by the gang at Explorama. I've hired a housekeeper--I know, I know--what kind of "roughing it" is this you're doing in the jungle? But it's a neighbor whose husband died quite suddenly of a heart attack at 45 so now she is without resources. I have her come and wash my floors and windows. It just doesn't seem like I have time for it all anymore so I'm glad to give her the work. I've picked up another student who's US sponsor would like me to manage the tuition money. As my little side businesses grow, I find myself keeping more records than I ever did for my personal accounts in the States but it's all fun and gives me extra pin money.

Well, I hope you all have a great day tomorrow with whatever food you choose to eat on Thanksgiving. I have no special plans and will work the day but perhaps I'll treat myself to a pizza and a bottle of wine as my way of giving eternal thanks for all my gifts, all my health, all my family and friends, all my safe passages and all that I hope to bring to the table while I spend a few years here in the rainforest of Peru and enjoy the spectacle of the Amazon River!

Mopping Up!

Well, for those of you who have faithfully followed my blog, it has been just over a year (October 27, 2008) since I entered my first posting! What started out as a last minute whim, as I left the States, has turned into a regular habit and a thoroughly rewarding experience. How quickly this year has passed and how different my life is today. Thank you all, whoever you might be, for reading my stories. I often wonder if I'm writing them only for myself, then I hear about someone who is regularly reading my thoughts and it keeps me inspired to carry on. Thank you for your continued interest and enthusiasm!

Hmmmmm...What’s new? After the last two blog postings, I'm afraid I can't top those adventures so I'll just bring you up to date and then a few more ramblings! My arm is slowly healing but I've finally given up using a sling. I still wrap it each day more for padding against an unexpected bump than any other reason. It's been a particularly hot week so having the added wrapping was no fun. My monkey bite is gone but, at the moment, I do have a scar so it reminds me of how insulted I was by the bite (I really don't like that monkey!). The garden around my apartment has been cleaned up and there are green sprouts shooting up here and there. One interesting plant is the banana tree. This huge tree was completely destroyed yet already the leaves are unfolding again, I swear, right before my eyes. It is now at least 1/3 of the way back to its former size! When the landlord returns from England, I hope he finds the hole in the wall as ugly as I do and decides to bite the bullet by rebuilding the wall at least halfway up.

I spent a week in the jungle with a large group of students from the American school in Lima. They came to do service projects in the villages and learn about the rainforest in general. I don't know exactly who these kids were but the Explorama boats which brought them to and from the Lodges were accompanied by a full Peruvian navy escort! In addition, a large cruiser was parked outside the Lodge on the Amazon for the whole week the students were here--very interesting! CONAPAC now has another water plant up and running--our 6th this year with one more to yet to build in 2009. Of course, we have about 75-80 villages with which we work so we have much more yet to accomplish :) Check out the bottom of my blog as I posted a new photo taken while at one of the water workshops--sling and all!

I've picked up another English student who is coming two days a week for conversation and other clarifications about the proper use of English. Of course, I'm always up against the fact that in Perú they teach "proper" British English which bumps up against American English in usage and pronunciation. I don't know which team will win this battle but you know the one I'm cheering on! I continue with my own Spanish classes which have a hit and miss quality to them. Some days it all just flows. Then other days every word sticks in my head and refuses to cross my lips...oh! This is so painful learning a new language :( I have been doing a lot of cooking and baking from recipes I brought here from the States. Now that I know what ingredients I can find here and what I can't, it makes it a lot easier to find the appropriate recipe. Each weekend I haunt the stores for the rare food item. When I do, I buy as much as possible since I know I'll never see it in the store again. My most recent hunt is for any kind of nut besides peanuts and any kind of cheese besides the soft processed type--in other words, something hard enough to grate on a cheese grater. Interestingly, two common things you can find here are marshmallows and cream cheese--go figure?! It feels like 1956.

Two successful finds I've had in the last week were my patio table and chairs, which I never thought I could possibly locate. But after looking and waiting and then going back to the stores over and over again, finally I found exactly what I wanted. And the miracle of miracles was that the salesman was actually helpful and promised he'd have it delivered that evening (it was already 4 PM on a Saturday). But sure enough in less than an hour he was at my door. I told him I'd never received such quick and efficient customer service in Iquitos. He then proceeded to tell me that was because he is from Lima!! Well, I hope more folks from Lima set up shop here in Iquitos soon and use their great customer service skills :) My other incredible find was WD40! Can you believe it? After my rant and rave at the TSA, I actually found it here. It’s a little pricey but well worth it. The trick here is never to be actually looking for something specifically--but you always want to be prepared with enough money if you do find something unexpected. If you don't buy it then, you'll never see it again. I'm still looking for some kind of interesting cereal other than the only ONE they have here for grown-ups. If you're coming to visit me in Perú, a box of Wheat Chex would be great!!

It has been the low water season and truly I've never seen the water so low. But I think just like those of you in the Midwest, telling me about the leaves changing and the November winds and rain moving in, the tide here has turned, as well. After this last week of oppressive heat, yesterday it finally broke. It rained so hard and for so long that I know the rivers and streams will be on their way to the start of the high water season. Last night there was an incredible thunder and lightening show, with crazy amounts of wind, too. There's not too much in the way of "extreme" weather here so it was really something. When I got home from work last night, I stepped out of the motorkar into a foot of water and it never stopped all night. This morning it was 78 degrees inside my apartment. The first time in several weeks that it dipped below 82 inside...a nice change of pace and clean streets, too!! :)

Final thoughts...thank you all for various notes and letters I've received lately. Also for some old friends I've found recently on Facebook. I feel so connected with everyone while I'm here, I think even more than when I lived in Michigan. Keep the notes coming as time allows and know I think of you all quite often. Take care and enjoy the upcoming "turkey day" festivities! OH, PS...Remember that rat problem which we "took care of" back in May? Well, theeeey're back! Not sure if we have a small rat problem or a large mouse problem but either way, our vacation from rodents is over! :(

Back In The Groove...

Whew! Some weeks are full of more adventures than others and I’ve certainly had my fill, especially after last week! Last Sunday I was sitting inside my apartment since it had just started to rain quite hard. Suddenly there was this big roaring sound, I turned around to see the 20ft. plus high, brick wall that forms the enclosure to my apartment building, completely collapse. It flattened all the trees and other plants in the garden, took down the telephone and cable lines and generally created a huge mess! The good news was none of the resident children were in the yard at the time which just prior to the rain they had been there playing. The landlord, who lives on site, had just left for 6 weeks in England so it was up to the resident guard to handle the clean up along with his older children. I have to say, they made quick work of it and by Wednesday it was as clean as possible. The wall was actually the side of the house next door in which no one currently lives. The owners had recently removed all the cross support rooms and vegetation had grown heavily on it as the roots undermined the mortar. The owners, who live in Brazil, were asked not to gut the place and leave it as they did for the very reason that the wall might collapse. Apparently, they did not care nor has anyone seen them since the incident. Needless to say, the clean-up consisted of tossing all the brick and debris onto their side of the remaining wall. Surprise, surprise when they one day return! All the animals and insects that lived in this mini-ecosystem of vegetation were quite clueless as to what happened and they were all looking for new homes—especially some rather large, black ants. I had to work hard to keep them out of my house. I think I will most miss the 3 foot iguana that lived on the wall but maybe he’ll return some day when things have re-grown. Since this is the rainforest where things grow very quickly, I expect most of the scars to be gone within a very short time.

This week, I was asked to judge a cooking contest for the students of Las Malvinas School. This is the school in Iquitos where CONAPAC is doing the large environmental garden project which I told you about in my last blog posting. The various grades (1-11) made different types of food from different parts of Perú--the coast, the sierra and the jungle. The food was displayed creatively and with nice table presentations. Along with grading the visual and oral presentations, we had to sample the food for taste and texture. So picture this--A small, hot room with food which was probably prepared some hours earlier, sitting in 80 degree plus heat, with maybe 100 or so kids roaming around looking at, breathing on, perhaps coughing on and generally hanging over the merchandise. Then the judges, about 10-12 of us were all using the same fork or spoon to sample the food. Get the picture? Needless to say, I paid for it the next today! :) But no worries--sometimes it's good for the body to start fresh! I have some photos of the food and will post them on my FB page soon!

As I’m struggling to learn Spanish (and I have to say this is getting much better) I realize I’m not just going back and forth between two languages. Besides the mix of Spanish and jungle words which are so integrated into the locals’ speaking patterns (I call this Spungle), I am also learning to convert the metric and imperial system for weights and measures at work and at home. Plus, my mind has to daily convert dollars to soles and vice-versa with the accounting process at CONAPAC and purchases I make. There are times my head swims and aches with the challenges but I comfort myself with the confidence that I’m warding off Alzheimer’s disease—at least for now. My brain is too busy making new connections in this old “bod” than to be shriveling up for lack of use. I’d highly encourage you all to start learning something completely new, especially if you’re on the back side of 50!!

People ask me all the time if it’s safe to live here. As it goes, I think Iquitos is a relatively safe and calm city considering the large number of people living here in a very small space. However, there is one consistent problem which is theft. Lots of motorcycles and other household items are regularly lifted from the street and homes which are not properly secured (barbed wire and steel grating plus locks). So far, my circumstances have been very safe but I, too, have suffered from thievery! Of what, you ask? Well, let me tell you about the thieves in the laundramat where I regularly take my clothes. Due to thiefs in the past of my socks and underwear, I now handwash them at home. I have lost shorts and tops but I don’t care to hand wash these larger items, so now I have the staff count my clothes when I drop them off. But the latest items which I realize have not been returned are dishtowels and rags!!! In less than a year, I have lost over a dozen new dishtowels, some of which were turned into rags, too. Who would have thought a rag would be such a premium product--or perhaps I have really nice ones? Either way, I have now decided not to take my dishtowels or rags to the laundry and I will start to hand wash them at home, too. It’s a crazy world out there! :)

Last comment—I know many of you are on Facebook so you may have seen this; but for those of you who are not, there are a variety of silly little quizzes which you can take to test completely unimportant and useless, but fun, information about yourself. Well, an old friend (might be a connection there) took the “What Is Your Old Lady Name?” quiz and suggested I try it, too. I was quite curious so went ahead. Well! Based on my answers, apparently my old lady name would be “Winifred” and the description--Welcome to Senile-ville! You're that crazy old lady that no one wants to be around but secretly everyone wants to be—is probably closer to the truth than I care to admit! My friend, on the other hand, was the type that would always be available to baby-sit and be prepared with cookies and other goodies in the house at all times. I guess we are who we are, from start to finish!! For my 50-something girlfreinds out there--and you know who you are--I hope you'll take the quiz, too, and share the results.

I’m off to the jungle for a week of workshops and service projects. I’ll report in later with the latest happenings at the Lodge and the villages we are visiting—Palmeras II and San Pedro de Manati. Hasta más tarde!

A Tentative Landing Home...

Greetings, once again, from the rainforest of Peru! I'm finally home after two months in the States in which I had a particularly good time visiting family and friends and meeting many new friends, as well. Thank you all again for treating me so well, taking me in with your hospitality and generally wining and dining me. FYI, as I expected, I put on 10 lbs. while in the States--ah, the good life! :)

But all good things come to and end and it was time to get back to “mi vida” here in Iquitos. It's been quite an eventful and trying first week back. As I've described to myself and others I just don't have my “mojo” back yet and I want it--now!! I returned to Peru but first spent three days in the city of Lima in an attempt to start the process of getting my “green card” or whatever it is they call it here? I'm not sure what or when anything will happen but things are in motion. Upon my first full day here in Iquitos, as I was getting myself unpacked, a nice storm kicked up. I ran out to close the windows and promptly slipped on the wet cement, fell hard on my left bum and elbow. I thought that was the worst of it but then I saw blood on my elbow with a big gash. One of the hazards of living alone are it's difficult to reach certain places in which to place a band aid but I patched myself up as best I could. The next morning, I could barely move my arm so off to the clinic and X-Rays which showed a nice fracture. Painkillers and a sling were in order so that has been a hassle for the week and it will continue for another six weeks or so. Work has been nutty after two months away with lots of fires to put out and pressing information to pass on to others. However, by the end of the week it was coming together so maybe next week will turn around my luck! On the way home from work one night, I had a near miss with a motorcycle who swerved to avoid hitting a motokar but then headed for me—so "my sling and I" we quickly jumped to safety :) Then the icing on my week was spent entertaining one of the biggest donor partners for Conapac on Thursday, International Expeditions. We went to Butterfly Island, a rustic wild animal reserve for a tour. While listening to the guide, one of the monkeys (who I've encountered before) was not happy when I bent over to pick up something she had dropped. She promptly attached me in the head then took a big bite out of my hand, drawing blood and now a big, very sore bruise. This really added insult to injury on my first week back but as I say, “welcome to the jungle”. I expect everyday to be an adventure here but sometimes having nothing happen other than a simple day at work and home can be quite comforting! Let's just say I'm very glad this week is behind me!

Some good news coming from CONAPAC! Many of you have read my stories about the environmental garden we are organizing in one of the local public schools in Iquitos called Las Malvinas. This is a departure from the majority of work we do which is in the rainforest in very rural and remote communities. Las Malvinas is a school of about 1200 kids (all from poor families and neighborhoods)with grades first through high school, running in two shifts. We have developed a lovely garden which grows examples of tropical trees, flowers, medicinal and ornamental plants as well as a vegetable garden. There is also a working fish farm and turtle pond. The kids are learning all kinds of practical applications using skills in math, science, art, farming, and the language arts as some of them will serve as tour guides to visiting tourists. So far the garden has yielded two harvests of veggies for sale . The kids have been reinvesting in the continuing needs of the the next crop plus they have a little money saved, too—all good life lessons. Our donor partner, International Expeditions, has funded it for the first year and we have had some great success. They have just agreed to fund it for another full year (about $11,000) so we are delighted. They have also agreed to fund the addition of a new, full time person to work for CONAPAC. We have such a small staff and such a large area to cover that it's difficult for all our communities to get the attention they need and deserve. This new person will start at the first of the year and spend Monday through Friday on a boat visiting different places each day, doing evaluations, checking on progress of various projects, encouraging teachers and children and generally handling the many follow up details that often take so long to accomplish. So, good things happening at CONAPAC and the start of 2010 is looking very promising.

OK, no more animal stories for this posting but I can't leave without my follow up rant about the TSA (Transportation Safety Authority). As you know, on my way back to Michigan in July, I encountered the most rude, unhelpful employees of this government organization in Miami which did not bode well for my impression of returning to the States. Upon my departure from Detroit last week, they once again rose to the occasion by treating me like a complete imbecile and created such a negative first impression that it took me some time to shake it off as I continued my travels. But, I could live with all that until I got home and unpacked. Now as you know I went shopping for a variety of things that I either can't get here or they are ridiculously expensive. As I was going through everything, sure enough, there was the TSA calling card where they leave a note that they've been searching through your “panties”. I've had this happen before but they wrote on the card what they took. This time they didn't, so I just thought it was a note saying they had opened my luggage for a peek. Then I went to look for THE most important thing I had wanted to bring back—a can of WD40! Well, it was gone and I cannot tell you how incredibility angry I am over this! :( This product is not available here and the fans and other things with moving parts are always gumming up and burning out motors. I really cannot believe that a can of WD40 is going to be a big security/terrorist threat--do you?! They didn't take any other flammable sprays I had such as hairspray, bug spray, nail polish remover, perfume and other personal items. I'm convinced that whoever opened my suitcase just needed some WD40 at home and took it...it's really quite expensive for a large can. So that has, once again, left me with a really bad opinion of these folks. Give someone a little power and....well, you know the rest! So, if you're heading my way and want to give it a shot, I'd still love to have a can of WD40—a girl really needs and wants so little :)

OK, next posting I'll tell you about my continuing saga to buy a patio table and four chairs. Maybe by then there will be some resolution--but then again, maybe not!! Have a great October!!