Sunday, November 30, 2008
A thank-filled week...
This was a busy week. I worked every day, for 8-9 hours with lots to do but the evenings were full of social events. Monday night I was invited to a street party with friends. It was a lovely, warm evening with live music, dancing and cold beer. I tried something new at the party--grilled cow heart. You all know I don't like meat because, to me, it has little favor. But this cow heart was quite good and I will try it again. Tuesday, I went to the opening ceremonies of the "Olimpidadas Deportivas de Amazonas" (I think you can figure that out!) The games were between Perú, Columbia and Brazil. The opening ceremony was quite good, actually, with fireworks, music and lights. The fútbol stadium is new and it was a pleasure to attend. Thursday, of course, was Thanksgiving. As the only Americans here to "get" what Thanksgiving means to us, Pam, Peter and I decided to break bread together at the floating restaurant in the middle of the Itaya River. Try as I might, I could not find anything on the menu that remotely resembled a TG meal other than mashes potatoes. :) No gravy, though, and without the turkey and stuffing, it was a bit of a bust. BUT, it was absolutely beautiful as we sat in shorts, sleeveless tops, and flip flops with a wonderful, sultry warm breeze blowing through. The food I missed, the weather, no! And then last night was my first opportunity since my return to go dancing at a place here called "Exploción". Events don’t even begin here until about midnight so needless to say, it was a long night. But no worries, I had a three hour siesta in the afternoon in preparation and even got to the office the today for a couple hours of work.
I did a little apartment hunting this week but no luck yet. I guess something will turn up when I'm really ready. Shopped a bit for mattresses, microwaves, fans, etc. Doesn't sound too rustic, does it? I guess it's all relative. A few more culinary blunders--I found myself a little "lost in translation" as I purchased what I thought was sugar but turned out to be salt (I ruined a perfectly good bowl of oatmeal), then raisins that turned out to be small prunes with pits and finally more salt that turned out to be monosodium glutamate. Truly, it shouldn’t have been that difficult but somehow it was. I did successfully make a couple different kinds of soup this week, mashed potatoes with garlic and cheese, a couple of really good salads, and my favorite, camu camu juice. Now for those of you that don't know, camu camu is an Amazon rainforest fruit. It looks like a very large grape and it's loaded with Vitamin C (double what’s in OJ). To prepare it you boil the fruit in water for a short time until the skin pops. Let it cool, then pick through and pull out the skins and seeds. The skins are loaded with color and flavor. Then you add sugar to taste and blend it with ice. It turns out a pale pink color, like pink lemonade. This week I added fresh pineapple and that was very good. Camu camu is added to yogurt, too. It's a difficult flavor to describe as it’s tart but subtle and I love it. Apparently, some health food stores in the States sell it in powder form (or something like that) for a lot of money. It's a fruit that so far doesn’t travel well so when you all come to see me, I will make it for you fresh!
Did any of you go shopping this weekend for Christmas? I saw on-line that a Wal-Mart worker in New York State was trampled to death when the eager shoppers broke down the doors and pushed through. Now, correct me if I’m wrong, but aren't there horrible economic conditions in the States right now? Does anyone there need one more gadget or gizmo, especially from WalMart? And in that big a hurry? Although for some reason I find the story funny in a dark sort of way, I do think it's a sad statement on our lust for "things". So stay safe in those crazy stores and I'll do my best to stay safe on the crazy streets of Iquitos....
Sunday, November 23, 2008
A Turn of events...
Well, last Monday when I got the office here in Perú, Pam came to me and said she had been placed on a new committee by the owner of Explorama, Peter Jensen--it’s called "the committee to keep me in Perú!" He told her, "To do whatever it takes to keep her here for at least two more years". Well! I was utterly taken aback and overwhelmed with many thoughts and emotions as well as being humbled by his words. Sooooooooo, after a long week of thinking, not sleeping, conferring with my Peace Corps placement officer, consulting with my immediate family via internet and telephone, writing out several pages of the pros and cons for both opportunities, doing a lot of soul searching about what my goals were a year ago and what they are now, then finally putting together a written proposal, I am happy and proud to say that for the next two and half years, I will be living and working in Iquitos, Perú for CONAPAC! I am extremely excited about all the possibilities here to make a difference on many levels. And although I consider becoming a Peace Corps volunteer an honor and a "once in a lifetime" opportunity, I believe this opportunity to be just as profound. Who knows? Maybe the reason for the whole Peace Corps process was about getting me ready for Perú and nowhere else! Things do happen for a reason and they work how they are meant to...at least in my world, that's what I believe and how I think. My commitment here will be until July 2011; however, I do anticipate returning to the States either in January, briefly, or in the summer for a couple of months to take care of some personal loose ends. I will try to see as many of you as possible before I depart once again. And, keep in mind that coming to Peru is not the Herculean task going to Africa would have been. In fact, Peru is the most delightful country and you really must try it!! Go onto http://www.explorama.com/ and start planning your next incredible trip and visit me while you are here!
Now you will now hear more about the work I am doing and the challenges I will face. I am particularly excited about the real possibility of becoming fluent in Spanish while I'm here. Since most everyone operates in Spanish, I am at a disadvantage but it's a challenge that makes it all that much more interesting. Just this week I was working on translating a year-end report in both languages. Between help from the bi-lingual owners of Explorama, and Google Translate, the report should be posted on the web very soon. So, before I move on to another subject, I want to thank my Spanish teacher, Joanie Sincic for her contribution of getting me started on my way to learning another language. We've had many fun classes over the last couple of years and I wish she were here with me today! She’s a great teacher and truly it is a calling for her to teach whether it be English or Spanish.
As you can imagine last week was filled with mental distractions, day and night. But I did get out and purchase a few household items. I will be starting the search for an apartment or small house in which to live. Not sure what I’ll find or where, but I’ll keep you posted. I have to buy a few things on my own, i.e. bed, mattress, a bit of furniture, microwave so shopping for these things, I’m confident, will be an adventure in and of itself! I was recently at a store which for lack of a better description was a dollar/department store type place. They have a little of everything. Well, I needed three things: body cream, a bucket and an "IN" box for the office. This entailed 3 different items, from 3 different departments, carried by 3 different clerks to the check out, who hand-wrote 3 different bills of sale, to one person who took my money, to another person who stamped the bills "Paid" to finally a 3rd person to put it all in a bag! Needless to say, there is no shortage of labor here (and no hurry, I might add). Now I can only imagine what the process will be like when I go to buy a stove or refrigerator? :)
Some days seem to have a theme to them. Saturday morning I headed to Belén market, the most incredible open-air experience you will ever have. There you'll find chickens and ALL their parts, (some still breathing) fish, meat, clothes, soap, spices, vegetables and fruits...all crammed into the tightest spaces with no refrigeration, but everything so fresh and cheap! I got a bag full of fresh fruits and veggies and other odds and ends for about 15 soles(or $5). So after encountering lots of animals in the morning I headed to work. On the way, what I thought was a bird, swooped my head a couple of times. Then I thought, no it's it a bat...but it was mid-day. So finally it rested on a wall and I saw that it was the most gigantic moth I'd ever seen--bigger than both my hands spread out. It had beautiful coloring and in the rainforest, resting on a tree, you'd never notice it. But laying against a concrete block building, painted some wild green color and ghetto bars on the windows, you couldn’t miss it! I do think he was quite lost. At the office, Pam and I stayed a little late to work and it was very quiet. A rat ran across the room so Pam then mentioned, after I had agreed to stay 2 1/2 years, that if you work late and it's quiet, the rats do tend to come out so she suggested that I should work with my feet up in the air! And lastly, as I was sitting in the internet cafe minding my own business, some sort of strange inset (I think) dropped in my lap...not once but twice. Not sure what it was and there was no one there I could communicate with to tell me--but I’m sure I'll see it again!
I will close now but I cannot go without thanking my wonderful, loving, kind and encouraging family for all their support and comments this week as I was making my decision. Many thanks then to my daughters, Erin and Samantha; my brother Tim and his wife, Deb; the father of my children, Rick; my dad, Jerry, and my step mom, Margo; my step dad, Harry and finally, of course, my two dear friends (who are really family in my mind) Tony and Joanie Sincic. I love you all with all my heart....Sintia
Sunday, November 16, 2008
A quiet week...
Well, I left off my last blog posting having just lost my ATM card. The good news is, I was able to make arrangements here with Pam to provide me with enough cash until my new ATM card can somehow arrive by way of another tourist. The mail service is completely unreliable so, therefore, not even a consideration. But no worries, I have enough to eat and I even bought a new pair of shoes today, so life is good!
I worked Monday-Friday in the office at Explorama, walking to work each day, which takes about 15 minutes. A lot more organizing and gathering of information about the wide variety of special projects in the works. These projects range from building latrines, painting schools, building mini water purification plants, fish farms, bridge repair, dorm rooms, and more. They happen along the Amazon and one of its tributaries, the Napo River, in villages that are already part of the Adopt A School program. Funding sources come from different people who simply want to donate money. They ask only that CONAPAC wisely spends it in the improvement of the lives of the "ribereños" or river people. From what I’ve seen so far, not only is the money well-spent, but it truly is making a difference in the lives of those who can most protect and sustain the integrity of the world’s largest and most precious rain forest. As a confessed "tree hugger", I'm glad to be a small part of it!
This past week I tried a little home-cooking in my very make-shift kitchen. Usually, I just "nosh" on fruit, nuts, drinkable yogurt (yummy!), crackers, tuna, peanut butter, etc. for my breakfast and lunch, then it’s dinner out. But to save money on dinner, this week I made an omelet one night and some pasta with a tomato/asparagus sauce another. I also whipped up a lovely bowl of guacamole. There are no nacho chips here so I just ate it straight out of the bowl (which is what I’d rather do anyway!) There is a communal kitchen at my place with an absolutely ancient refrigerator that, at best, "cools" the food. (They don´t refrigerate eggs here, by the way). Also, a small microwave oven and a single hotplate with the only temperature setting being "burn". I don't think the place is electrically grounded because when I cook with a metal spoon in the pan, I get a mild current running through my body. The kitchen has a collection of odds and ends for plates, bowls, glasses, mugs and silverware. There are no cooking utensils at all so you have to use the silverware at hand. Today my search in the city was for my very own paring knife, spatula, wooden stirring spoon (to help with the electrical short) and misc. cups, bowls and dishtowels. These things I will keep in my room and use when I need them. I’ll keep you posted on my future attempts at culinary delights in this challenging space...and this coming from a former kitchen designer! I will have to take a picture to go along with all my other kitchen photos from CareCrafted. :)
My very best friend here in Iquitos is a charming young man named Jose Luis (hereafter I will call JL). JL works at the "La Casona" where I live and I met him the last time I stayed here in the winter. We corresponded during the summer so it was wonderful to see him again. He is a delightful young man! He speaks English very well and is quite curious about the world around him. We can speak on a wide range of topics which you all know pleases me! He is about 23, just started speaking English at 18, and yet his range of vocabulary and understanding of English idioms is quite surprising. He particularly likes American slang and has a good grasp of its nuances. I hope to get a book of American slang to him before I leave by way of a friend who will be visiting here in January. JL has been working in the tourist industry as a guide and now in the hostel where I live. He is a "natural" in the hospitality field. He wants to have his own restaurant/bar someday and will name it "Que Rico". Now this expression, as he describes it to me, is what you say when you have had a particularly pleasant, but simple, experience...such as finishing a good book, having a good meal, enjoying a friend’s good conversation, relaxing after a long day’s work in your bed or by the beach, etc....You lean back, sigh and say, "que rico". So keep this in mind the next time you have a joy-filled moment!
Lastly this week, I was invited to the school of Arianna, Pam´s 10 year old daughter. The occasion was her all-school singing recital with ages ranging from 3-18 years old. Arianna was singing a solo, "I Will Survive", in English. She was quite good and won her age group. So, how do I describe a Peruvian recital? Well, we were outside, of course, under a palm-thatched roof with a stage, benches and plastic chairs. There were about 150 people of all ages but a sound system to service about 1500 people. Needless to say, it was overly loud and in your face--so this just generally drowned out the children's voices. The general scene was a lot of talking, screaming, eating, drinking, whining, and moving about by everyone, with no one in particular watching the stage, except the family members in question--in other words, general chaos. Much video taping and photo flashing was taking place as each act came and went. It started raining with a few leaks here and there where we sat, which then seemed to short out the electric guitars. All in all, not unlike an American recital where lots of kids and lots of family members sit waiting for their child’s one small moment of glory...and praying it will all be over soon. But did I have a good time? Yes! Was it another memorable Peruvian experience? Of course! Will I be invited to go again? I certainly hope so!
Well, I’ll sign off for now. For those of you in the north, stay warm; in the south, stay cool; and those in between, keep the faith! :) Have a great week...
Sunday, November 9, 2008
A week of firsts...and seconds!
I was able to see most of all my old friends this week. Over the weekend I went back out to the Lodge in the jungle where I lived for most of my time last winter. I saw many of my old students and others that I had met along the way. It was good for my soul to be back in the green beauty of the rainforest. I hope to visit more regularly on the weekends when it is possible to hitch a ride out with the tourists. The weather is quite hot here. It hasn’t rained since I arrived, which is unusual, thus it hasn’t cooled down much. Mostly in the high 80´s and low 90´s with humidity in the 80% range. But to cope, you just slow down and wait for nightfall, which happens around 6 PM each day... and, of course, tip a few cervasas!!
I went with my friend, Sheyla, to a rather dirt-poor part of Iquitos. Now that’s a relative statement, because to an American, all of Iquitos would look quite poor. But this part of town has no water or sewage services. Unpaved roads, thatch roofs and dirt floors. Sheyla is planning to provide hot chocolate and special bread to the neighborhood children, about 200, on the 22nd of December! It’s called a "Chocolatata" and I understand it’s somewhat of a tradition to provide this to children who will get nothing else for the holidays. Now the amazing thing about this is that Shelya herself doesn’t have a pot to pee in, she has two young children and she and her husband work quite intermittently. But somehow this young gal's heart is big enough that she still has room for others even in her reduced circumstances! Needless to say, I have volunteered to help with this event and donate some money to the cause. I will get photos and try to post them when the time comes!
Lastly, this was a week of "firsts". For the first time I’ve been in Iquitos I saw a man riding a bicycle! (Very dangerous thing in this town) I actually saw a dog on a leash, a young man (20- something) walking along with his pet chicken and then two Peruvian ladies asked me for directions! Now come on, I do not look like that much of a local, do I? And last but not least, for the first time in my life, I left behind my ATM card at the money machine. It’s gone and now I’m going through gyrations to replace it. I can charge some things but one really needs cash on the ground here. Pam is working it out with me along with my daughter Erin but needless to say, it was a stupid and upsetting thing for me to do! Oh well, lessons learned.
Peace to all, have a good week and I will write again soon. Thank you, too, for all your comments. You don’t know what it means to me as sometimes it does get quite lonely here :( Thank you friends and family, once again, for all your support. . . .
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Historic night...
I went to my friend (and boss) Pamela’s house to watch as she is also an American. The two of us sat on her rooftop overlooking the city. She had run her cable line up there and we sat watching two stations, CNN in English (with a very bad picture) and CNN in Spanish (with a great picture) but, of course, I’m not fluent so it was a bit of a challenge. Thank goodness for graphics which transcend language! We munched on Peruvian junk food and drank beer. As the night wore on and it was clear Obama had won, periodically, we’d hear shouts and cheers coming from other houses as I assume they had just tuned in and gotten the news. And just as Obama started his acceptance speech, a rooster crowed over and over, something that had not happened all evening! The Peruvian’s love Obama and are they are quite thrilled for us both!
I can’t help but say that I was touched, not only by Obama´s words, but Mr. McCain’s, as well. This had been a difficult choice for me as I’ve always liked McCain and know full well he would make an excellent president. He was truly gracious and humble--it reminded me that these two men and their actions are why I’m most proud of being an American. The truly peaceful process of transferring power and the understanding that they were opponents, not enemies, is what makes us a great people. As I’ve spent time out of the country in the past 5 years, I’ve found myself often trying to defend various USA political positions with people who didn’t quite understand where America was heading? As I move forward I will be most proud to call Obama my president! Where ever I go, I’m confident I will be well-received.
Thanks for letting me comment but I promise to keep the political views to a minimum in the future. I want all my family and friends to continue tuning in so don’t be afraid to do so. In a few days I’ll write a bit more about some projects I’m getting involved in down here...I think you will be most interested....and if I can figure it out, post a few photos, too!
Sunday, November 2, 2008
Getting reaquainted...
Walking along the streets yesterday, things are much the same. Many holes and sewer grates missing, half dead dogs lounging around (I think the same ones as before), lots of motorcycles and mototaxis, the same woman on the same corner selling the same fruit that I can never remember what it´s called. The markets I shopped at had more pre-packaged products than before, many from Perú but most from the USA. I bought my usual staples--crackers, peanut butter, drinkable yogurt, olives, tuna, fruit and some vanilla wafers. I was invited today to a friend´s house for dinner. Sunday apparently is spaghetti day but frankly the fried chicken they served was better. Interesting as I watched four children ranging from 3-9 years old eating chicken wings, legs, backs, etc. and navigating around the bones with no trouble. Unlike our own children who can only seem to eat chicken in the form of a nugget and dipped in some kind of sauce!
As I left my room yesterday and started walking, I ran into one of the owners of Explorama, Jaime and his wife. Then today in the middle of town, Nancy, the librarian and her boyfriend, Fernando, flagged me down. This morning I got a phone call from a friend, then this evening another friend saw me at the Internet cafe and stopped in. So I don´t feel like a stranger this time around. Last time I barely knew three people. Now, I figure I know about 30 or so people but I still feel in the dark with the language. As you all know, I like to talk and not being able to express myself fully is a challenge. But it will make me better at this language thing more quickly, I guess, and that´s what I wanted.
On a final note, I was in the Miami airport on Friday, heading out of the States where I gave Erin, my daughter, a last minute call. She told me that Peace Corps had been calling and looking for me! So go figure...I begged to get some information out of them and now that I´m gone they are looking for me. Well, they have my number here so perhaps I see what the placement officer has in mind for me. I´ll keep you posted.