Tuesday, August 24, 2010

I Like It Like That!






In general, the residents of the jungle are quite easy going and ready for a celebration any time of day. This translates to the city of Iquitos, too. The residents are mellow and rarely do I see or hear a cross word. In fact, violence is rare and in the almost two years I've been here, I've never seen anything until just last week. A man was trying to steal an orange or two from a street vendor. The vendor chased him off with a stick then the thief in turn started throwing chunks of street concrete at the vendor. It was quite a show but a little unsettling for Iquitos. Anyway, this got me thinking about the things people like here and the things they don't. Or at least my perception, so take it for what it's worth.

The most prominent thing you'll notice about the city is the love of cement and concrete—it's everywhere--and besides buildings, other things are made of concrete, too. Park benches, flower pots and tree stands, balusters and railings with faux turned posts, decks and sinks, kitchen cabinet frames and counter tops. I even visited at a house that had built-in concrete couches with cushions and pillows to add a bit of comfort. In the middle of the rain forest, where rot can practically be heard happening, I suppose it makes good sense but the unfortunate issue is that here is no architectural interest in the least—and with their love of re-bar or re-rod second only to the love of cement and generously used as a decorating element--you can imagine that Iquitos is probably one of the most unattractive places on earth. I find this ironic since it's smack in the middle of one of the most beautiful natural environments in the world but then again, maybe Iquitos knows it can't compete with the natural world, so why try? Or maybe it's just more practical— simply choose cheap, durable, rot resistant products by which to build your house and home!

Another crazy thing that they like is White Out or Liquid Paper. They LOVE this stuff and everyone, everywhere seems to have a white-out pen along with their regular pen or pencil. They sort of lust after them and you have to watch out that your's doesn't disappear. When I first came here I just cracked up and thought what in the world does anyone do with this stuff? But now I, too, am addicted! Maybe it's a need to be neat and tidy in paperwork and not to waste things. In the US, I'd just get another piece of paper or make another copy but the white out does have it's place to salvage something. Of course, there's lots of “white out graffiti” too! Especially on school desks and park benches but perhaps I could look at it as another art form then I'd take less offense by it?

Some more things they love are plastic bags of literally every size and color for every imaginable use. Whole stores are dedicated to selling only plastic bags. Don't even think about leaving a store or walking down the street without a plastic bag! I regularly bring my own "earth friendly" bags which the clerks look at me strangly but I somehow still end up with so many more plastic bags than I can use. Then there's chicken. Now I like chicken, too, but really, it's the only thing in quite literally every local restaurant you can order! Don't try opening a new restaurant for the locals with anything different—it won't fly. Mickey D's and Taco Bell?--Don't even think about it! Of course, there's cumbia music and nothing else will do. Inka Cola, parilladas (chicken BBQ's), ice cream, and any kind of holiday, labor strike or celebration will be reason enough to take a day off work and call it a party!

Of course they love futbol here and when they get tired of that, they play some more. Although every park and school yard has basketball hoops, I've yet to see anyone play it nor have I ever seen a basketball for sale in the stores. They love hot, humid weather and quickly bundle up when the temp dips below 80ish (of course, I join them on that one). Street shows are a great attraction, some with more value than others—but always watch your wallet. Clowns on stilts and mimes are common. On the main boulevard downtown where the beggars, thieves, hanger's on and tourists meet, there is always the lure of a tattoo show. Although I have a few of my own, the last thing I wanted was an audience when I got them--but spectator sports sure can vary around the world. :)

Perhaps my last observation is a bit silly but it's striking. Whether folks live on the river or in the jungle with the muddy Amazon close by or back in Iquitos, there is a great emphasis on cleanliness. When we do our school deliveries, the kids and parents will be wearing very clean, white, pressed clothes and in the city all kids, whether in public or private school, will be wearing sharp, clean uniforms. Their homes are of a standard which is often less than our Western dogs and cats enjoy yet when they step out unto the street, they're dressed, pressed, showered and ready to go--big sales here in colognes, too! They eat lots of onions and garlic so fresh breath is important too—thus street vendors and stores are always hawking gum and mints. And since the Peruvian greeting includes cheek to cheek kissing, even when you first meet someone, it's important not to offend. People regularly offer you mints or gum so take no offense—it's just the sweetest place on earth!

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